“It was enjoyed by all the tasters at the table; a great by-the-glass choice for a restaurant wine list to accompany fruity puddings,” writes Hawkings of Banfi’s Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui 2023.
Banfi owns Europe’s largest contiguous vineyard, spanning both Tuscany and Piedmont
Those of us who write for consumer as well as trade press have to kiss a lot of metaphorical frogs at so many retailer tastings before we find wines we’re confident to recommend. Not so at Louis Latour Agencies’ 37th London tasting where there were princes at every turn.
Little wonder, given that Louis Latour Agencies’ portfolio includes so many classy producers. Maison Louis Latour, of course, (the largest vineyard owner of Grand Cru sites in Burgundy), as well as names such as Banfi, McHenry Hohnen, Smith & Sheth and Viu Manent in their clutch of top labels that together embrace the world.
While there were few red trousers on show, there were certainly more tweeds than turn-ups among the enthusiastic tasters; these are wines for lovers of the traditional rather than the trendy.
“2023 was a strong year for Louis Latour Agencies,” reported Will Oatley, Louis Latour Agencies’ managing director. “We’ve continued to see strong demand for premium products, perhaps because the buyers of these are less impacted by the cost of living crisis.”
“Burgundy at all levels is doing well, from Mâcon-Lugny all the way through to Louis Latour’s fantastic Grand Crus,” he went on. “The 2022 vintage has been received very well and we are very hopeful for these as they are released and gradually come onto the market. Also doing well are Cognacs, especially premium bottlings and prestige Champagne cuvées where we continue to find demand for limited edition products.”
The past year has also seen Louis Latour Agencies expand its spirits offering beyond Frapin’s fine cognacs to now include Louis Latour’s own Marc de Bougogne, some great grappas from Banfi, and Cobalte, the first vodka made in Champagne since the 18th century, which all sit very well in the agency’s wine portfolio.
Ten of the best from the Louis Latour Agencies tasting
It’s hard to choose favourites from so many excellent bottles on show, but these are the top ten that particularly tickled my fancy on the day
Louis Latour Les Pierres Dorées Pinot Noir 2021 (£15.78)
The kissing began at the ‘Louis Latour Outside Burgundy’ table by way of a warm-up. A quartet of well-priced wines from the Ardèche, and a threesome from Beaujolais including this, from the north of the region at an altitude of 400m whose clay and limestone soils are more reminiscent of Burgundy than the granitic soils more commonly found in Beaujolais. Crunchy dark fruit, subtle spice and a hint of bitter chocolate with almost Burgundian finesse for a mere £15.78.
Louis Latour Viré-Clessé 2021 (£20.28)
From the ‘Louis Latour Value Wines’ table, whose DPD prices ranged from £13.66 for the snappy, slightly smoky Mâcon-Lugny ‘Les Genièvres’ 2022 and rosé to £58.43 for the very promising red Chassagne-Montrachet from the same year, reminding one that all things, including perceptions of value, are relative.
Lying in the north of the Mâconnais, the Viré-Clessé appellation was created in 1999 and this wine stood out among the un-oaked Mâconnaises on show. Fermented and matured in stainless steel, it has a breathy delicacy, gently floral and very silky with just a touch of lemon zest on the finish. Very, very attractive.
Louis Latour Volnay Premier Cru En Chevret 2015 (£57.78)
Onwards then to be spoilt for choice by Burgundy royalty at the ‘Louis Latour Fine Wines’ table. The luscious Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Sous Les Puits 2020 (£73.67) and the tender Beaune Premier Cru Vignes Frances 2017 (£46.52) particularly caught my eye, as (unsurprisingly) did the Echezeaux Grand Cru 2016 (£243.89), but this had me swooning and returning for more. Sleek and elegant with perfectly ripe plums, rose petals and nutmeg on the nose and a meaty but not muscle-bound palate with a lick of liquorice. A keeper that will surely only get better with age.
La Chapelle de Sainte Roseline 2023 (£29.73)
Château Sainte Roseline is the latest addition to the LLA portfolio, added in May 2022 and one of only 18 Crus Classé in Côtes de Provence. Dating from the 12th century and classified since 1955, it is the only remaining family-owned Cru Classé estate and its 110 hectares have been fully organic since 2022. Unusually, the estate makes red, white and rosé wines, a selection of which were shown at a masterclass led by Spanish/Italian winemaker Marco Bealessio.
My pick of the rosés was the very tantalising La Chapelle de Sainte Roseline 2023 (£29.73), a tank sample poured from magnum made from 85% 60+ year-old Mourvèdre with a little Grenache and Rolle, cold stabilised before fermentation, 40% of which takes place in 18hl oak barrels. The oak gives subtle structure and richness to the surprising but very agreeable notes of lychees and tomatoes that sit with bright red berries and a pink grapefruit zing. Very gastronomic.
Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui 2023 (£12.06)
A decidedly frivolous choice from a line-up of top-drawer, classic wines from Banfi, LLA’s Italian representative and the estate that owns Europe’s largest contiguous vineyard, spanning both Tuscany and Piedmont. I could have picked the supremely elegant Brunello di Montalcino (£35.48) from Tuscany’s excellent 2019 vintage, or the bright and breezy Col di Sasso 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese blend at only £10.51, but by this time my palate was becoming decidedly jaded and this Rosa Regale came to the rescue – a sweetish red fizz bursting with fresh strawberry and cherry fruit at a very refreshing 7% abv. It was enjoyed by all the tasters at the table; a great by-the-glass choice for a restaurant wine list to accompany fruity puddings, we agreed.
McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 (£23.99)
Over to the New World at McHenry Hohnen, the Margaret River joint venture of hospitality entrepreneur, Murray McHenry, and his brother-in-law Dave Hohnen, the brains behind both Cloudy Bay and Cape Mentelle.
Their biodynamic vineyards produce some wonderful Chardonnays (“the best-value Chardonnays in the room,” my tasting neighbour said) including this, from 25 year-old vines cooled by the nearby ocean breezes, wild-fermented and aged on its lees. Lots going on here; peachy fruit, lemon curd, some exotic floral notes all held together with a lovely saline, mineral tension. Their sumptuous Hazel’s Vineyard reds were also showing very well, particularly the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga Albariño 2022 (£22.28)
Inspired by the traditional French négociants, Steve Smith (ex-viticulturist at Villa Maria and co-founder of Craggy Bay) and US investor Brian Sheth buy the very best fruit from around Hawke’s Bay to make their impressive Cru range of wines.
This is from the Heretaunga appellation and includes fruit from their own estate at Omahu; bursting with juicy peaches and ripe pears, it has a plush richness that sets it apart from its Spanish cousins but still finishes with that classic Albarińo saline tang.
Mention should also be made of the only orange wine in the room. From Pyramid Valley, another Smith and Sheth biodynamic project, a Pinot Gris/Sauvignon Blanc/Riesling/Muscadet/Gewurztraminer blend that’s aged in amphorae and is slightly hazy. It is, however, very clean, with apricot, tangerine and preserved lemon fruit and just a little tannic crunch.
Viu Manent ‘Tiny Trials’ Cinsault 2021 (£15.48)
“Chile continues to be hard which is frustrating because we see such innovation and quality coming out of the country backed up by a great tradition all, at very fair prices,” Oakley told me. “Viu Manent work hard to produce high quality wines backed up by really strong third party reviews. This will be one of our focuses for 2024 and we are busy putting plans in place to re-launch their wines.” Good news, as these are smart, modern wines at good prices that deserve attention from clued-in buyers.
From their Tiny Trials range of terroir-driven wines this lovely Cinsault is concentrated but still fresh, with bags of red cherry and raspberry fruit, pretty floral notes and a touch of pink-peppercorn spice. Extra marks for the winery’s commitment to sustainable practices, including the use of lightweight bottles.
Gosset Grand Millésime 2015 (£56.14)
Founded in 1584, Gosset is the oldest wine house in Champagne and their classy range never fails to impress. Gosset’s decision not to use malolactic fermentation for its wines gives them distinctive clarity and bracing freshness, veering to the point of austerity in some of the wines on show here.
Not so with this; the 59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay blend is generous with ripe pears, redcurrants, white flowers and roast quince along with a toasty creaminess and just a touch of honey on the finish.
Cognac Frapin Extra £400.37
Frapin makes Gosset look like newcomers – its current head, Jean-Pierre Cointreau, is a direct descendent of the vigneron who founded the domaine in 1270, located in Grand Champagne, the most highly regarded sub-region of the Cognac appellation. Plenty of time to get things right then, and they certainly do.
This, which comes in a beautiful circular decanter, is a blend from the family’s ancient reserves and is really very special. A gorgeous nose, delicate but with lots going on, then a complex, powerful palate – dried fruits, exotic flowers, cigar boxes, vanilla and more – that’s incredibly smooth. Blingtastic.
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