Castelnau Wine Agencies (CWA) is the UK arm of French producer, Terroirs et Vignerons de Champagne. It sells Champagne Castelnau exclusive to the UK on-trade and specialist retailers. One of the biggest global Champagne brands, Nicolas Feuillatte is also part of the TEVC family, meaning that CWA have an enviable portfolio of Champagnes on offer.
So, a trip to the agency tasting naturally puts you in a bubbly frame of mind. For first time visitors like me, the broad selection of still wines was a surprise: orange wines from New South Wales, top-end Californian Chardonnay, organic Riesling, and Grüner Veltliner from Austria… wines for a palate with catholic tastes!
There’s a spot of delicious irony in the story of Domaine Mucyn. Its owners, Hélène and Jean-Pierre Mucyn are originally from Champagne, but chose to ‘lay down roots’ on the banks of the river Rhône. They have 14 hectares across the AOPs of Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph, between Ozon and Pont de L’Isère.
It was the richness of personality that I found so appealing in the Mucyn wines on show. Saint Joseph Blanc “Les Carats” 2021 (£22.76). 100% Roussanne from a south-facing, single vineyard planted on schist and gneiss soils. 20% of the must was fermented in barrel, the remainder in vats with nine month of lees ageing. A Rhône white with this sort of zip and zeal, alongside an array of ripe, fleshy orchard fruits and white summer blossom, isn’t so easily found. One of those wines you want to savour, revisit, and ponder over.
Equally attractive was the Crozes-Hermitage “Les Entrcoeurs” 2022 (£19.44). 100% Syrah picked from 40-year-old vines, planted on pebbly, alluvial soils. There’s a three-week-long maceration, followed by tank ageing. Such an inviting and generous nose, slightly savoury. Gorgeous, richly fruited, and textural palate.
Another impressive duo came thanks to, Quinta de Cottas, a ten-hectare property in the Douro’s Alijó. Neatly presented and stylishly tasty, both the red and white struck a nice balance between regional typicity and drinkability.
Cottas Branco 2022 (£10.93) is a vibrant blend of Arinto, Viosinho and Gouveio. Juicy, green tropical fruit with a touch of fresh herb. Cottas Tinto 2020 (£10.93) combines Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cão, with 30% of the wine being aged for six months in French and American oak barrels. I enjoyed the bright red and black hedgerow fruits with hints of pine nut and spice.
New Zealand’s Tiki Wine is a strong performer for Castelnau. I found the wines represented good value for money, particularly the Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 (£14.67). Located in North Canterbury, the red had the freshness and fragrance that comes from the area’s long growing season. An elegant, medium-bodied Pinot with plentiful, fresh-picked English summer cherries and light spice. Single Vineyard Pinot Gris 2022 (£12.81) oozed pear juice, gooseberry, and fresh, aromatic herbs. Such a lovely, juicy mid-palate and cracking length.
Tiki is an indigenous New Zealand Māori wine producer, caring for its vines under the guiding Māori principles of Kaitiakitanga: guardianship, protection, and preservation of the earth.
That’s just a pick of some of my still wine favourites. The range is broad and worthy of a look and a considered taste.
Castelnau: The champagnes
Castelnau cellarmaster, Carine Bailleul succeeded another female cellarmaster, Élisabeth Sarcelet in 2021. Bailleul has been with the company since 2003 and calls it her second home. While bringing her own personality to the wines, Bailleul is continuing with Castelnau’s tradition of extensive lees ageing that brings elegance and character to the wines.
If I had just one word to describe the Castelnau range, it would be, 'refined'. From the NV Brut (£32.57) through to the vintage wines, fruit unfurls generously and broadly across the palate. The Vintage 2006 (£44.36) is led by 50% Chardonnay, then 30% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier. Inviting toasted nut, brioche and praline notes with citrus peel and pink grapefruit too. The mousse is fine and persistent.
The treat of the tasting, though, is the chance to sample the 1992, 2002 and 2005 vintages from magnum. All with five-to-six-year ageing on the lees, it was the youthful vivacity that was so striking across all three. 1992 had remarkable structure, and while there was a ‘walk in the forest’ quality from its age, there was also sprightly citrus in evidence too. I loved the intensity and generosity of the 2002 which was hanging in tight to its youthful exuberance, while secondary nuance gave away its true age. 2005 tasted like a baby after the other two but rest assured that its breadth and complexity will contribute to delicious, long ageing.
Magnums from the library can be ordered by special request.
Lastly, a note on Nicolas Feuillatte. One of the most important global wine brands, the wines have an irresistible appeal. In the UK, Castelnau sells cuvées that are exclusively for the UK on-trade, and premium specialist retail. Réserve Exclusive Brut NV (£29.55) is made from 40% each of Pinots Noir and Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. This is a generous, fruit-forward, and hugely versatile Champagne. There’s no denying its easy drinkability. The Réserve Exclusive Rosé NV (£34.90 is a delight of a drink. 45% each of the two Pinots and 10% Chardonnay it is laden with fragrant red apple and raspberry fruit to the end of the impressively long finish.
There is some serious class in the Castelnau portfolio, and it was a joy to explore.
Castelnau Wine Agencies is a commercial partner of The Buyer.
