The Buyer
South African wines with 747 pilot Darren Brogden and Vincisive

South African wines with 747 pilot Darren Brogden and Vincisive

What makes an ex RAF and current captain of Boeing 747s get into the wine industry? Our globetrotting Michelin-starred chef Roger Jones finds out who is behind the goggles and interviews Darren Brogden, founder of South African wine specialist importers Vincisive.

Roger Jones
29th March 2017by Roger Jones
posted in Tasting: Wine,

First, the motivation behind setting up Vincisive. Then, with Roger Jones at the controls down at The Harrow at Little Bedwyn, Darren Brogden is the passenger for a lunch that has the most amazing food and wine pairings.

Darren Brogden (left) at Wines of South Africa

So, Darren why South Africa?

“After 28 years experience flying around the world, firstly in the RAF and more recently as a Captain on Boeing 747s with Cathay Pacific, it’s South Africa that has become my first love in the world of wine.

It’s a beautiful country full of wonderfully welcoming and warm people that are passionate about producing quality wine and showcasing them to the world. It’s exactly that passion and devotion to producing the best possible wine each harvest that captured my interest in the first place.

That interest has only grown with each successive visit and I’m fortunate to now count many of those incredible winemakers as close friends.”

Landing at Cape Town

What South African wine gave you that Dam Buster feeling?

“From the moment that I first tasted Matthew Van Heerden’s superb Uva Mira Chardonnay 2009, I knew I had to buy some for my cellar in the UK but I was to be surprised and disappointed that it wasn’t available here and a subsequent conversation with Matthew led me to set up a wine importing business to bring in his wine.

I had no experience, no contacts and no idea, but was comforted in the knowledge that the worst thing that could happen was I’d have to drink all of Matthew’s wine myself!

The day job – flying 130 tons of Beaujolais Nouveau to Japan

Vincisive Wines was born and I’m delighted to say that we’ve added many excellent winemakers since. It’s been a fascinating journey and I’ve been privileged to work with and get to know, many great people in the industry both in South Africa and the UK.”

And the future?

The South African wine scene continues to go from strength to strength on the back of the dynamism, energy and optimism of a younger generation of winemakers. With the support of multiple UK importers, higher visibility in the wine media and sterling work you Roger and your Tri-Nation Wine Challenges, the future of South African wine is bright indeed. It’s nothing less than these single-minded and talented individuals deserve.

I wonder if Darren’s next vision is to set up a decent direct flight to Cape Town, saving me flying through Dubai with Emirates each time?

The wines

Vincisive imports the following wines direct from the Cape:

Amares, Beaumont, Beeslaar, David & Nadia, Constantia Uitsig, Eagles Nest, Newton Johnson, Migliarina, MVH Wines, Mullineux and UVA Mira.

Consumer/trade lunches

Darren also hosts consumer and trade wine lunches, often at The Harrow at Little Bedwyn. The quality of his wines is quite apparent in the quality of the guests that turn up such as Jancis Robinson and her husband.

Here is menu for lunch on Wednesday 22nd March

Foie Gras and Salted Caramel Macaroons

Migliarina Riesling 2016 £15.95

Fresh, bright, textured, lime zest more Rhine than Mosel, bright, wet stone, a fantastic example of Riesling, not typical of South Africa but a great wine

Sashimi of Diver Caught Scallop, Perigord Truffles, Artichoke Cream

Beaumont Hope Marguerite 2014 £20.95

Soft peaches on the nose, deep intensity as you take the first sip then a lovely balance with the delicate oak finely balanced, white peaches and spice follow on the palate, a wine that excels with age but drinking well now

Textures of Pembroke Lobster

David Sadie Aristargos 2015 £25.95

Well balanced, hints of white flowers and buttercups, creamy, textured, lingering, lots of tantilising flavours that evolve on the palate.

Monkfish, Chorizo, Black Pudding

Matthew Van Heerden Chardonnay 2014 £23.95

Love this Chardonnay and have it on our list, there is a lovely intensity of citrus infused stone fruit, some nutty ness on the palate, bright and tingling aftertaste encouraging you to go back for more.

Welsh Mountain Hoggett, Minted Cous Cous

Newton Johnson Walker Bay Pinot Noir 2015 £18.50

Still youthful and exuberant, bright tart cherries, strawberries and bright flavours, a toddler to the Family Wines, but this will evolve in a year or so and become another star from the Newton Johnson Family.

Confit of Welsh Black Cheeks, Parsnip Purée

David Sadie Elpidios 2013 £29.95

Spiced, sweet dark fruit, juicy, forward drinking, great elegance and restrained despite the amount of luscious fruit oozing from the glass.

Old Winchester, Walnut Bread

Amares Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 £18.95

Big and gutsy, dark cherries, herbaceous, broad, ripe, soft delicate cedar, ageing well

Rhubarb

Beaumont Goutte D’Or 2014

Elegance, complex and another favourite of mine, Chenin based dessert wine that shows real class. The clean fresh acidity at the end keeps it crisp.

All the wines are available through Vincisive Wines at www.vincisive.co.uk