Before Roger’s copious notes on which wines you should be making a beeline for, some musings on the venue itself – New Zealand House, which was controversial when it was built and still boasts some of the most spectacular views over the city of London.
Although it was headlined as the 2017 Release Tasting, this event also included older vintages, which had recently been released, such as the 2015 and 2016.
Chris Stroud, New Zealand Wine, Sir Jerry Mateparae New Zealand High Commissioner, Roger Jones (l-r)
The tasting was hosted as usual in the spectacular penthouse at the top of New Zealand House. This building was built on the derelict site of The Carlton Hotel, destroyed by a bomb in the Blitz, and completed in 1963. As such it was the first significant building in London built after World War Two, although soon after many others joined it such as the Park Lane Hilton.
It has a chequered history, from the controversial ‘modern skyscraper’ of the era stuck in an area of historic old buildings, (numerous planning consultations lowered the original design) to its fame from the Martini adverts and base for Martini. In fact back in the early 1980s I cooked a dinner there for Martini, which was significantly different to the most recent catering I undertook there (Did you know? – Ho Chi Minh trained as a pastry chef under Auguste Escoffier in the same building before his political career – Ed.)
Sparkling
No 1 Family Wine (Amathus Drinks)
It can be quite hard for New World sparkling wine to make an inroad into the ‘sparkling capital of the world’ with the English and Welsh sparkling industry riding a wave of bubbles. However, many believe that the market price that our home grown produce has achieved has helped both Australia and New Zealand to highlight their prestigious cuvées. Not least the wines of No 1 Family wines, a French influenced winery set up by Daniel Le Brun in July 1977. The Le Brun family had been making Champagne for 12 generations prior to their move to New Zealand.
Adele and Daniel’s children Virginie and Remy are now taking the business forward. Production is based on 7 cuvées, which include three limited release vintages: Cuvée Virginie, Cuvée Remy and Cuvée Adele.
No 1 Family Estate Assemble, Marlborough, NV
Chardonnay 60%, Pinot Noir 35%, Pinot Meunier 5%
A full flavoured sparkling that balances peaches with brioche and fresh citrus aromas, bouquet of gentle white flowers, the palate is rich and textured, hints of delicate lemon curd, Provence stone fruit, delicate bubbles.
No 1 Family Estate Cuvée Blanc de Blancs, Marlborough NV
Citrus and delicate summer berries on the nose, crisp fresh and delicious, hints of pink grapefruit, orchard fruit and zesty freshness, some nutty flavours, white peaches, long finish, lovely wine.
No 1 Family Estate Rosé, Marlborough, NV
Made from 100% Pinot Noir, delicate salmon pink, delicate cherry aromas, and white flowers, dry and gentle on the palate to give a focused clean precise rosé.
Sauvignon Blanc
Whilst New Zealand continues to offer a whole spectrum of Sauvignon styles I have been impressed with the way Tim Heath has evolved the style of Cloudy Bay over recent vintages bringing it back in my mind to its fore, a restrained focused more linear Sauvignon Blanc that is streamlined to produce a wine that is equally good quaffing as it is with food.
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2017 (Möet Hennessy UK)
Restrained elegance sums this up, delighted that Tim Heath took the steps a few years ago and go against the norm and focus on this great name set up by David Hohnen all those moons ago.
Chardonnay
Here we have a slight dilemma, there is no question that New Zealand produces great Chardonnay that is focused, steely, full of minerality and clean stone fruit, some tropical nuances and controlled bright acidity, but there can be in some cases over exuberance by the winemaker whether with the use of oak or acidity, and this then produces a wine which cannot always be identified as Chardonnay, they may well be great wines to drink, but as a restaurateur I need to focus to my clients needs. I also not that acidity is getting more dominant, where I feel crispness is great but searching for the Rennie tablets is not always ideal. However, here are my top New Zealand Chardonnays from the tasting that really do showcase the New Zealand purity.
Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Chardonnay, Marlborough 2016 (Hallgarten, Druitt & Novum)
Great balance of bright acidity to a creamy texture, layered wine that has gentle tropical and ripe stone fruit, elegant, lingering and with a long, clean, fresh aftertaste.
Felton Road, Block 2 Chardonnay Bannockburn, Central Otago 2016 (Cornish Point)
Pure, taut, delicate cedar wood, spiced and herbaceous (green), delicately nutty and oh so gentle tropical flavours – a wine to lay down.
Felton Road Block 6 Chardonnay, Bannockburn, Central Otago 2016
Ripe white Provence stone fruit, soft gentle textures, alluring, this is drinking now but will continue to evolve – a star wine.
Vidal Estate Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2016 (Hatch Mansfield)
Straightforward, clean, fresh Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay, honeydew melon, crisp fresh acidity, good value.
Vidal Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2016
Delicate tropical fruit, guava, touch of tinned pineapple, citrus acidity, lingering, needs time.
Escarpment Chardonnay, Martinborough 2015 (Seckford Agencies)
Luscious fresh and vibrant, well balanced with soft acidity, touch of minerality and gentle but textured white stone fruit.
Elephant Hill Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay 2015 (Corney & Barrow)
Superb purity, elegance, clean fresh and focussed.
Elephant Hill Reserve Chardonnay, Hawkes’s Bay 2015
Intense, juicy purity, marked tropical fruits, citrus flavours are quite forward, needs time.
Pinot Noir
Esk Valley Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2016 (Hatch Mansfield)
Savoury, gentle truffled aromas, old Burgundy style, but has kept its freshness, cherries and gently savoury on the finish – impressed.
Vidal Reserve Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2016 (Hatch Mansfield)
Fruit-forward with cherries, lovely vibrancy to this, clean on the palate and easy drinking.
Akitu, Wanaka Central Otago, 2016 (Mentzendorff)
Before we discuss the wines, just a little gripe re the wrap-around label so it’s not clear whether you are having the A2 or the premium A1 however a real find for me as I had not tried these before and great examples of modern Pinot. Rather than release their wines in the early years (first plantings in 2002) they sold their grapes, with 2012 being their maiden vintage.
The A1 is a real class act, lovely gentle berries rumbling on the palate, touch of gentle toasted oak, sweet rhubarb confit, dark and white cherries, opens up beautifully on the palate, textured, layered, this will age gracefully.
Felton Road
Not much more I can say about these refined Pinot Noirs, although I would highlight both the 2016 Block 3 and Block 5 as stunningly good wines that are actually drinking rather good now but will, of course, evolve with a decade of age.
Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2016
Dark fruit and luscious herbs, smoky notes, which fills the mouth with a luscious, fresh, vibrant gobsmackingly good flavour. It is textured, layered and just gently washes away any ill thoughts, a wonderful wine.
Escarpment Pinot Noir 2015, Martinborough
Larry produces Pinots that evolve beautifully with age and this is no exception.
Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir, North Canterbury 2013 (New Generation McKinley)
Luscious blackberries, mulberries, and raspberries a glorious mouth-filling experience. Touch of black olive, this is elegant and lingering, layered and textured.
Syrah
Vidal Legacy Gimblett Gravels Syrah, Hawke’s Bay 2014 (Hatch Mansfield)
Blackcurrant, pepper, gently restrained on the palate the flavours and textures combine together to produce a seamless wine that has a lovely long creamy and textured finish – cool velvety and silky.
Craggy Range Le Sol Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Syrah, Hawke’s Bay 2015 (Bibendum)
Craggy know how to do elegance and restraint, here is another wonderful classic from their Le Sol range, bright and spiced, textured, silky smooth, juicy restrained precise fruit, touch of spice, come back in 10 years to see this at its best especially in magnum.
