Two new signings from Oregon and plenty of great wines from Germany and Portugal were some of the many highlights at the ABS tasting.
September and October are two of the busiest months of the year for the UK wine trade, as importers and distributors prepare themselves for the key Christmas period. This year has been no exception with Armit, Liberty, Lea & Sanderman and many others showing their latest signings alongside old favourites.
It’s early days, of course, but if there has been a theme this year it would have to be diversity. With younger and less traditional agencies snapping at their heels, the more established names are keen to show they haven’t lost their edge and can respond to current and evolving trends whilst also meeting traditional market demands.
David Ferreira of Mouchao
Last week’s vast Awin Barratt Siegel (ABS) tasting, held in the august surroundings of One Great George Street, was a case in point; they had so many wines to show they took over the whole building, with the main tasting in the upstairs Great Hall, tastings of new Australian signings downstairs in the Council Room and a selection of (pretty pricey) German Grand Cru 2016s alongside 30 ‘must have’ wines for the independent sector on show in the Brunel Room.
So from this dizzying array of wines, what were the stand outs?
I’d be lying through my wine-stained teeth if I told you I visited all of the ABS producers or – God forbid – tasted all the wines but the following caught my eye.
Villa Wolf (Ernst Loosen), Germany
These are great value wines from Germany’s Pfalz region made by a young winemaking team, Patrick Moellendorf and Sumi Gebrauer and their enthusiasm shines through. The Walt Riesling 2016 is a delicious off-dry wine with lots of fruit and character (and just £10) whilst the other varietals are also worth seeking out, notably the Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer (both 2016 and £11.75). The 2015 Pinot Noir has great red fruit and good restraint and is a steal at £12.75.
Karl H. Johner, Germany
When I visited the Johner winery in Germany’s Baden region, I was impressed by the great sense of terroir that his wines impart, little wonder perhaps, as the best are grown in the Kaiserstuhl’s famous volcanic soil. Tasting them again confirmed to me that these are amongst some of the most exciting Spatburgunder being made in Germany today. Seek out the 2013 Pinot Noir (£32.50) and if you can get hold of them, some of the pricier single vineyard pilots. You won’t be disappointed.
Twill Cellars and Division Winemaking Company, Oregon
You wait for years for ABS to sign an Oregon producer and then they surprise you by signing two – and very good they are too, focused on terroir and organic winemaking and keen to impart what makes this increasingly trendy wine producing state so special.
Twill from Willamette Valley are perhaps the more conventional of the two and offer a good solid 2015 Chardonnay alongside an impressive fruit-driven Syrah and two good Pinots; Division are slightly pricier but their 2015 Gamay Noir Renardiere and 2015 Pinot Noir Cinq were standouts, albeit not cheap at £49 and £45 respectively.
Peter Franus, California
Peter Franus is one of the great veterans of Napa Valley and sources wines from some of the best growers in the region – which is why these wines are on the pricey side. But the selection of wines on show here was impressive and diverse, including the wonderfully bold, brambly, almost overpowering Red Hills Lake County Mourvedre 2013 (£41.50) – which comes in at a stonking 15.5% alcohol – a delicious Cabernet Franc (£50.25) and two full-on Zinfandels, of which the Brandlin Vineyard Mount Veeder Zin was the most impressive. Its not shy though – this one of 16% alcohol.
Herdade do Mouchao, Portugal
If you want quality, body and full-on fruit, but with good restraint, its hard to go wrong with one of the Alentejo’s best known producers. All these wines were showing well including the main wine, the Mouchao 2012 but the real surprise here was the impressive, fruit forward 2011 Mouchao Tonel 3-4, a fine example of how this producer works with Alicante Bouschet, a variety that works well with the diurnal extremes of Alentejo. Priced at £118 this is a world class wine.
Antiquarian, Australia
This Riverland producer makes two wonderful rare field blends, comprised of the white Chenin Blanc, Muscadelle, Colombard and Semillón, and an equally diverse variety of grapes in the red. Both well priced at £27.75 they are intriguingly layered, beguiling and well-made wines and a welcome exception from the current Alt-Aussie trend for making often overly acidic and austere wines.
Gundog Estate, Australia
This premium producer, which makes wines in the Hunter Valley and in Canberra, makes an interesting range of well-focused wines that don’t adhere to any pre-defined style. The 2014 Smoking Barrel Shiraz from Canberra was impressive and well worth its £34. But the prize here is the 2015 Wild Semillón from the Hunter, remarkably savoury and full-bodied, with great age potential, but checking in at just 9.5%. Bonzer, as we used to say Down Under.
Other sturdy reliables that showed well were Jordan and Tokara from South Africa; Quinta do Portal (Portugal) and from Germany: Dr. Loosen from Mosel and Leitz from Rhinegau. But frankly the list could go on.
So much good wine; too little time to taste.
