Grapes are not the only thing being squeezed at this time of year, chat to any wine importer, wholesaler or agency and they’ll be quick to tell you that customers’ wallets are also feeling the squeeze.
With consumers dining and drinking out less frequently, the on-trade in particular is going through a tricky period. With this in mind, on-trade specialist Bibendum is keen to help its customers by offering them alternative ways to engage with wine consumers.
Getting ready to party - Let Us Drink Wine banners being hung in Shoreditch
Its recent ‘Let Us Drink Wine’ tasting aimed to ‘refresh’ its customers' wine lists and boost their by-the-glass options. The tasting featured a curated showcase of its French portfolio, focusing on what's hot right now, by-the-glass picks and different formats, from cans to carafes.
But why France, and why now? C&C Group's head of wine buying, Simon Jerrome, explains: “France is no longer an entry level country, they’ve lost a lot of that entry-level stuff to South Africa, to Chile, and to some extent to Argentina with Malbec,” he says. “Traditionally in France you eat while you enjoy wine too, so today is a really good opportunity just to remind people that French wines go really, really well with food.”
The tasting was conceived with By-the-glass "front and centre" - Simon Jerrome
There’s plenty of food on show at this walk-around tasting, an endless stream of trays appear seemingly from nowhere and circle the room offering smackerels of delight from buttermilk chicken with hot honey, to crunchy langoustine and steak sandwiches. There's even a guy walking around shucking oysters, and a huge table groaning under the weight of cheese, charcuterie and game pie.
All of these things find a home with the 100 or so French wines being poured. Jerrome explains that the tasting has been planned with the by-the-glass proposition front and centre; each of the wines on show have a place on a restaurant or wine bar list as BTG serves. The food being served helps to grease the wheels in the minds of the buyers and restaurateurs attending.
© Michael Jackson/ Saltwick Media
“We sell to the on-trade, and invariably when you’re in the on-trade environment there’s food on offer, even if it’s a bag of crisps right up to Michelin-starred grub. We've sort of got away from that a little bit, particularly with French wine,” he says.
“If there is one thing that has helped French wine is that we're now prepared in our heads to be able to buy wine by the glass at £10 plus,” says Jerrome, who believes that this shift has enabled France to come roaring back as a genuine BTG country, offering value as well as prestige.
“In the old days if you paid over a fiver for a glass of wine, you were like thinking, hang on a minute, this bloke's having me over here,” he adds. “But now customers are prepared to pay for some really good wines and enjoy that glass of wine. I think that's become really important, and France fits that remit really, really well and that allows people to taste wines they probably wouldn't taste before.”
This shift in customer mindset to on-trade pricing has suddenly brought a host of classic French wines like Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Bordeaux back into the game.
“We can help people remember and retry those classics that are still out there that maybe they wouldn’t take a risk on at £60 a bottle, but at £12/£15 a glass, they just might,” says Jerrome.
The stuffiness around French wine, in particular, seems to have gone over the last decade or so and moves like this can only help further in that regard. “France still makes fantastic wines,” says Jerrome, “they've just maybe lost their way a little bit in the UK to shinier things that have come along.”
© Michael Jackson/ Saltwick Media
Looking around the room and overhearing customers’ conversations, many are impressed with what’s on show. In one corner there’s a bar area offering free pours of a carefully-curated selection of French wines presented as a complete wine list, with pricing, tasting notes and serving suggestions. It’s here that customers can really see how many of these wines can work for them as a BTG proposition.
There’s a Coravin station too, and Bermar’s Le Verre du Vin system on show, demonstrating to customers how even more premium wines can be offered with little or no wastage.
“We support our customers with things like preservation systems, " says Jerrome. “If they go by-the-glass we’ll give them a slightly better deal on some of these more premium wines… because wastage is always going to be a problem. We've got to be able to support them and make them feel comfortable that they can offer premium wines by the glass.”
As well as the French focus, the tasting also has a room dedicated to Bibendum’s sparkling portfolio, with everything from Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle to Pinotage pet-nat from Swartland. It’s a good foil to the French offering, and some of the food matches work particularly well with fizz.
It’s a good way, says Bibendum, to show that sparkling wine isn’t only Champagne and Prosecco. Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 2019 in magnum is absolutely on song, as is the vibrant, pink-sherbet dusted Leslie’s Reserve Rosé from Balfour.
Today felt more about France though, so here’s a handful of standouts from that side of the tasting.
10 French by-the-glass stunners
Vouvray Sec, Clos De Nouys, 2020
Deliciously dry with bright and tangy gooseberry fruit. Notes of tinned pear on the lemon-flecked finish. One of those brisk, no-nonsense wines that’s too easy to return to.
Petit Chablis Vibrant, La Chablisienne, 2023
A classic. Herbs and lemon on the nose, then apples and an elegant mineral line on the palate. A dash of spice adds an edge to this pure, clean Burgundy.
Bourgogne Aligote, Domaine Roux Pere Et Fils, 2021
Often overlooked, but punches way above its price on a wine list, this Aligote is light-footed but has enough stone fruit heft to make it a bright and enjoyable choice. Simple but on-point.
Bordeaux Blanc, G de Guiraud, 2020
Another classic, this rich, lemongrass-tinged white Bordeaux has lovely weight on the mouth and finishes with an oily, limey tang.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape White, Château La Nerthe, 2021
Simon Jerome’s pick of the tasting, he suggests pairing it with fried chicken. It’s a bold pairing for a bold wine; this blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Clairette is textured and long with honeysuckle and herbs on the nose and quince on the palate.
Trouble Red, Gerard Bertand, 2023
The thinking behind this organic, unfiltered and very light red wine is a little odd. I’m not sure anyone is desperately seeking a permanently cloudy wine but there you go. Regardless of its limpidity it’s a delicious, lip-smacking red with bright berry fruit, crisp acidity and a delicate texture.
Charmont Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Rouge, Edouard Delaunay, 2021
Pomegranate and punch, this Pinot is juicy and fresh with notes of raspberry, dried herbs and spice. Smashable but not showy.
Les Trois Verres Julienas, David Beaupere, 2020
Another juicy red that slipped down very easily alongside the charcuterie on offer. Made from organic grapes and unfined and unfiltered, it’s chewy and bright with redcurrant fruit, pencil shavings and a lovely structure.
St Mont Rouge, Château de Sabazan, 2014
Tannat can be hit and miss, but this one is a banger; as you’d expect it’s bold and dense - brooding even - but the purity of black fruit and an intense hit of baking spices tie it together. The tannins are soft and long.
Cairanne, Alain Jaume, 2022
“Best value for money wine here,” says Simon Jerome. It’s an impressive wine; deep, rich and fleshy with dark black fruit, a hint of smokiness and a savoury bacon fat note. Truly on-song.
Côtes du Rhône Rouge, Domaine Jamet, 2022
Spicy and floral, but it’s the freshness and punchy deep red fruit which makes this so delicious. It’s smooth texture and lean, mineral finish make this utterly more-ish.
Bibendum is owned by C&C Group which is a commercial partner of The Buyer, click here to discover more about them.
