“Was hugely impressed with the full stable of wines by Stephen Ogier at SWIG’S tasting back in April,” writes Jones in picking his Best wines of 2023.
Roger’s summer was pretty much taken up by the Rugby World Cup. Can you guess the team he supports?
Vouvray Le Clos du Bourg, G Huet 1959 en Magnum
A rare privilege to drink this magnum of 1959 Vouvray from Huet, despite its Demi-sec status this was a wine that was fruit filled yet pure and precise, it had been recorked at the domaine some 10 years ago, and delivered a magical experience. There are few white wines that age so perfectly as these Vouvrays do, reminding me of great White Rioja in aged quality. Hard to describe all the flavours from pure precise pineapple essence, white cob nuts, toasty but fresh and zingy, a sheer delight. Gifted to me by one of my clients at a recent lunch I hosted for him.
All Angels Sparkling Rosé 2018
Hidden away down a country lane near Newbury in Berkshire this family-run micro vineyard is based around a 16th century church, producing intriguing sparkling wines such as the recently released 2014 which has had an extended time on lees. However, I was instantly taken by the 2018 Sparkling Rosé, a blend of 61% Rondo and 39% Pinot Gris, giving the perfect harmony of berry and savoury notes, bright freshness and precision. This would be perfect on a winter’s day with a slow roast shoulder of Welsh mountain lamb. There is freshness with notes of pomegranate and raspberry, savoury nectarine/peach aroma, beady toasty brioche and spiced acidity on the finish.
Roger presenting the CSWWC award for Rare’s 2008
Rare Champagne 2008 Millesime Magnum
Piper-Heidsieck Rare is an unique prestige cuvée. Following the unprecedented heatwave that struck France in 1976, the Piper-Heidsieck’s winemaking team began looking at ways to work with these natural forces, and when the assemblage was complete and the final blend bottled, the team was so proud of the result that they called it Rare. The brand started as Piper-Heidsieck Rare and in 2019 this became simply Rare, although when you pronounce Rare it is said in the French way Rare as opposed to Rare (steak). These cuvées are only produced in exceptional years: 1976, 1979, 1985, 1988, 1990, 1998, 1999, 2002, 2006, 2007 & 2008. This wine won the Supreme World Champion at this year’s Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships.
Dog Point Section 94, Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Sheer class, this barrel-aged Sauvignon Blanc showcases how well New Zealand can make Sauvignon Blanc, in an elegant, textured, layered style that shines class. Clearly defies the trend of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc losing its popularity, more akin to white Bordeaux rather than New World SB. Dog Point was set up by Ivan Sutherland and James Healy, having worked as viticulturists and winemakers for Cloudy Bay.
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Blanco 1986
Brought to me by a kind friend when attending a Sunday afternoon BBQ in our garden, exceptional wine and price, I was privileged to cook at the launch party when it was originally released, thus it was a very thoughtful gift. Still full of life, and one of those wines that evolves as you drink it, best not to share to get the full Monty.
The bunches were pressed in a vertical wooden double spindle press. Fermentation took place in aged wooden 18,000 litre vats. Aged for 252 months in 225 litre American oak barriques and 67 months in concrete. Bottled on 19th January 2014. 97% Viura with just 3% Malvasia, For me this sits in the same class as Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco 1964 and 1957.
Condrieu Les Vielles Vignes de Jacques Vernay 2019
Was hugely impressed with the full stable of wines by Stephen Ogier at SWIG’S tasting back in April. Condrieu when at this level is a wonderful textured style of wine that is great for food matching. The highlight for me was the Vielles Vignes de Jacques Vernay 2019, a masterclass in Condrieu – bright clementine aromas, fresh and textured with tiny bursts of flavour refreshing the palate, then the wine evolves beautifully with hints of white asparagus and some stone fruit… superb!
Nope, this may look like a blood sample but is in fact the Kanonkop 1973 – saved by Johann Krige
Kanonkop 1973 Cabinet Sauvignon
Due to train strikes I missed the “Kanonkop 50th lunch”, but Clare Malbec of Island Media very kindly ensured that some of the first vintage of Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon was saved for me in a special test tube which I enjoyed tasting with South African royalty, Johann Krige. This was in perfect condition with delicate cassis notes, some aged Cuban cigar notes, polished clean focus with plenty of life left in this unicorn wine.
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2019, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale
Yangarra has championed Grenache for some time, and this wine shows real class. This has sensitivity throughout, seamless with bright freshness balanced with spices and savoury notes. Cranberry and cherries, with some herbaceous notes together – as the wine opens up on the palate there is a wonderful, perfect mouthfeel – this really does show just how good Grenache can be and will evolve perfectly. From a vineyard planted in 1946. Check out the Yangarra Roux Beaute Roussanne 2015.
Cartuxa Evora Branco 2021, Alentejo
Many reasons why I have listed this Portuguese white wine in this line-up… the quality and great price, of course, but the setting of a little restaurant in a small fishing village on the Algarve and a long leisurely lunch in the warm April sunshine. This has texture, zesty citrus appeal, stone fruit, freshness and perfectly matched to fresh seafood and shellfish.
The Standish Single Vineyard Shiraz, 2006
I found this in my cellar, and opened it after coming back from a Decanter Blind Panel Tasting where his most recent release had done rather well, with it being my highest mark. The 2006 is what I call seamless, the purity and perfection is awesome, this is Barossa Shiraz at its very best.
