Expect the unexpected with Alpha Box & Dice, South Australia’s test winery to be producing wines from largely Alternative varieties.
One of the most popular tables at Boutinot‘s excellent tasting earlier this year was manned by Justin Fairweather, one of the two brothers behind one of South Australia’s (McLaren Vale) boutique wine success stories, the curiously named Alpha Box & Dice. It was so popular that although I returned a few times during the day, I eventually gave up trying to taste any of the wines because what had been a crowd had turned into a scrum.
“We’ve only had the wines a few months – but customer interest has been amazing,” says Maree Carroll of Boutinot.
Alpha Box & Dice made another equally popular showing at this month’s Alternative Varieties Tasting, with a Nebbiolo (Fog), a Prosecco (Zaptung) and a Nero D’Avola (Siren) amongst the curiously named wines available.
But who are these guys?
Their website says they make “wines without boundaries – regional, varietal or stylistic,” adding that the raison d’etre is to make wines that are delicious and “express the minutae and complexity of site and vintage conditions. Made in small batches, with minimal intervention, from grapes grown by local growers the aim is to eventually make 26 wines whose names start with each letter of the alphabet – all expressing something different.
Alpha Box & Dice has its focus on alternative varietals, and sourcing high quality grapes from across South Australia rather than owning vineyards themselves. This allows them to make new wines from unusual varieties as and when these become available.
Curious to know more, I spoke to their brand manager, Lachlan Aird.
Lachlan Aird
Was it part of the original plan to grow and make wine from such non-mainstream varietals? Did you do this from the start? And why?
The plan was to always champion alternative varietals. Our concept is to create an ‘Alphabet of Wine’, where each letter of the alphabet is represented by a different wine style. Our aim to is to create a whole collection of wines, where some are still traditional, but many are alternative.
What made you chose the varietals you currently grow; which have proved the toughest to make wines from?
The growers that we work with vary in terms of knowledge and sophistication. Some are farmers who have worked with the same grapes for years, others are more scientific and have tested their environment to match the climate and geology to the most suitable grapes.
As McLaren Vale has a very similar climate to the Mediterranean – and was settled by Italians – Italian varietals are prevalent in the region. We like working with Italian varietals as they make interesting, yet approachable, wines.
Some can be tricky to make wines from – for example our Aglianico spends roughly four years in oak before it is bottled.
What has been the customer response?
Customers are always surprised and intrigued by an Alpha Box & Dice tasting. At the Cellar Door, there is usually at least one wine varietal or style that even wine connoisseurs haven’t tried before. This is great for both parties, as it broadens the customer’s knowledge of wine and helps Alpha Box & Dice to be remembered as a winery doing something different.
This context has translated through to tastings internationally in different export markets – there is an air of ‘expect the unexpected’ when going into an Alpha Box & Dice tasting, which we enjoy.
What is your total volume right now, and which have proven your best sellers?
We are a small batch winery and do intend to stay that way – our products do sell out, which adds a sense of urgency to buy when available and hype when an old favourite is returning.
As we are growing the range of Alpha Box & Dice wines by adding to the alphabet, the winery is naturally growing, but each product is still considered to be small batch.
Each wine has its own following – some people have even had particular wines’ designs tattooed to them! – so there are fans of each product we make. Based on volume and general popularity, Tarot Grenache would be the best seller. It’s a light and approachable red that can be drunk in so many different contexts, it tends to capture most people’s interest.
So what would be the best way to try these wines?
Over dinner, I’d advise starting with Zaptung, a sparkling Glera called that because in Europe we cannot call it Prosecco. This is a pretty artful version of Prosecco, just 11% with the bottle topped by a beer bottle cap rather than the usual cork. Spritzy forward and fun with pear and apple undertones, but also surprisingly dry and fuller bodied than many Italian Proseccos.
The Golden Mullet Fury (an unusual Semillion-Viognier blend) would go perfect with the first course; gold coloured, this has unusual depth and persistence and something of a the character of a natural wine because it’s made with skin-contact – the result is a very moreish wine, with just 12.5% alcohol.
And for the main? There are too many goodies to chose from here but Enigma, made from Barbera grapes grown in the Adelaide Hills, is a full-bodied, well-structured and fruit driven wine, perfect for a meat main or cheese afters.
I could keep running through the alphabet but you get the idea: these are wines that are quirky and well worth trying. They are also some of the most comprehensive and ambitious examples of Australia’s ongoing Alternative Varieties revolution.
