From third and fourth generation winemakers to young guns looking to shake the whole region up, Sonoma has so much to offer. Together they are now producing some of the world’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and looking after some of the oldest vines not just in California but the whole world.
In Napa Cabernet is King but Sonoma’s ace up its sleeve is the diversity of its soils, altitudes, exposures and grapes - with over 60 varieties grown in the region over 18 AVAs ( American Viticulture Area).
The beauty of Sonoma County
That diversity in site showcased itself when trying the wines from one of the newest AVAs, West Sonoma Coast, which by its name is a cool maritime climate area, with the entire region influenced by the fog from the coast and the cool winds from the cold Pacific Ocean. Together they help bring a wonderful acidity to its wines and lower ripening adds complexity to the wines themselves.
A few of the stand out producers in the region include Peay Vineyards outstanding scallop shell Pinot Noir 2022 and Ernest Vineyards' Joyce Vineyards 2022. The latter’s winemaker Joseph Ryan says it “picks four weeks later than the rest of the valley” and in 2021 he was still bringing in grapes as late as November 7. “I’m tired by then,”he laughs.
Christopher Streiter at Senses Wines
Christopher Strieter, co-founder of Senses Wines, says he is looking to make with “California sunshine and an acidity backbone.” He is very much living the Californian dream having ended up owning the vineyards with two of his school friends where they used to play when they were kids. Now all these years later and the winery is regularly picking up 100 points for its wins.
You can understand why when you taste Senses’ Bodega Thieriot Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 which has a stunning fruit profile with underpinned acidity that adds length to this beautiful wine.
Take me to the river
Then there is the Russian River Valley AVA where so much of Sonoma’s winemaking history lies.
We were able to sit down with producers across six of its sub-regions, including the cooler climate Sebastopol Hills and Green Valley to the warm north east Middle Reach and Eastern Hills. For all these producers the clones they use are playing an important part in the wines they are able to make, particularly for Pinot Noir and Burgundy clones like Dijon 114, 667, 777 and Pommard to the historical clones they have from the region Swan, Martini and Calera.
Here we had the unique opportunity to first walk the vines with second generation Emeritus Vineyards grower and producer who sell wines into the UK, but mostly supplies fruit to other, which is the norm for so many growers in the region.
One of the key growers in the region is the Duttons Estate, a sixth generation farmer that almost everyone seems to want to get some fruit from.
We also took some time with Price Family Vineyards vice president and wine grower, Rob Harris, who looks after the famous Durell Vineyard and produces the acclaimed Three Sticks wine range. It also sells a large proportion of its grapes.
“I consider myself a lucky guy to be entrusted with caring for these vineyards,” he says.
Dry Creek
Here the average temperatures are warmer and you start to see more of Sonoma’s diversity. The Dry Creek AVA is beautiful, yet narrow - 16 miles long and two miles wide - and is famous for its old vine Zinfandels that cover so many different exposures and soil types. All of which help produce Zinfandels with structure, brightness and complexity unlike the jammy, over extracted examples that we still sometimes see.
Dry Creek Valley also has some of Sonoma’s best Sauvignon Blancs, with some stand out wines comes from Dry Creek Vineyards and the new guys at Kokomo Wines who are producing stunning examples of stone fruit, melon, mid palate weight and wonderful length Sauvignon Blancs. They are very much worth seeking out.
Alexander Valley
The warmest and farthest north east is Alexander Valley home to Alexander Valley Vineyards which has been owned by Harry and Maggie Wetzel since 1962. Harry was even named honoured as Sonoma County Vintners’s Icon for 2025 - after 50 years in the business. The wines themselves have a richness and ripeness best shown in their Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends. It was the Grenache Rosé that stood out the most with its bright cherries and food versatility.
Their daughter Katie Wetzel Murphy grew up in these vineyards and her youngest daughter got married under a tree overlooking its vineyards last month ensuring the next generation of the family is embedded in Sonoma wine history.
Taste of Sonoma
We also attended Taste of Sonoma put together by Sonoma County Vintners a consumer focus festival at the beautiful Kendall-Jackson wine estate which showcased over 100 wineries from the region, complete with insider wine tours
Brad Horne with fellow tasters at Taste of Sonoma
It was also an opportunity to talk to producers who are looking to export outside the US and explore new global markets for their wines. The UK being a key focus forPaul Sciandra at Salty Goats Wine Company:“It has to be one of the most exciting markets to be distributed in and we would love to find a partner in the UK. I'm in the UK a lot and see the diversity in wine and I'd love to see our wines in restaurants in London and across the UK.”
Sonoma history in viticulture my have started over 200 years ago, but it's been over the last 50 years that winemaking has really stepped up to such international acclaim. The region is making such a wide diversity of great wines for California, the US and the world to enjoy and with new young gun winemakers finding new sites and varieties to work well with who's to say it won't be as revolutionary as the last 50.
Brad's Top 6
Now this is really hard to do but here are my top six from the trip chosen across the AVAs.
Peay Vineyards (West Sonoma Coast AVA), Shallop Shell Pinot Noir 2022.
2022 was a warmer vintage in Sonoma but this being a cooler AVA it adds a bit more flesh to the wine, jumps out the glass with beautiful florals, lifted red fruits and hints of black tea. The palate ripe cherries and hints of orange peel the finish has a stoney minerality and wonderful length. 97.
Three Stick (Sonoma Mountain/Petaluma Gap AVA), Gaps Crown Vineyard Chardonnay 2023
2023 touted as a perfect growing season this wine showcase site with fog not lifting until the afternoon. The long growing season gives the wine stunning acidity and tension with a sailine lemon note and beautiful weighted mid palate with diving acidity and excellent aging potential. 96.
DuMol (Russian River Valley AVA), Wester Reach Chardonnay 2023
Another producers that likes high density planting. This has lots of citrus, ginger, white peach and hazelnut. Mineral acidity cuts through a broad textured palate. It should also have the ability to age. The 2016, 2013 and 2009 wines all had freshness and show how great Sonoma wines can age. 97.
Kakomo (Dry Creek AVA), Zinfandel Timber Creek Vineyard 2022
Dry Creek AVA is doing something special with Zinfandel and this wine was the best I tasted on our visit. Wonderful ripe cherries, blue fruits with great structure fine grain tannins and length honestly a revelation for my Zinfandel knowledge and well worth trying. 95.
Small Vines (Sonoma Coast AVA), TBH vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
A producer that learnt there craft at DRC and uses high density planting,one of only a few producers doing so. 2021is the coolest vintage over the last five years . Lots of purity of red fruits on the nose with hints of forest floor with fantastic acidity and savoury elements interwoven with great weight and length. Look out for these guys. 95.
Pride Mountain (Pride Mountain AVA), Reserve Cab Sauvignon 2022
This AVA straddles both Sonoma and Napa and this is the first vintage with winemaker Matt Ward whose impressive resumé includes Screaming Eagle, Craggy Range & Atelier Melka. This wine also is made with 100% Sonoma with this vintage notes of mulberry, blackcurrant, cedar, cigar box with hints of pencil shavings with fine grain tannins. This will age for years. 98.
* You can find out more about Sonoma County at Sonoma County Vintners website here.
