I was invited to attend a UK Sommelier Challenge focusing on Taylor’s Port Vintage Years hosted by David Guimaraens, the company’s technical director and head winemaker.
The purpose of the event was to educate port drinkers on how to best enjoy these special wines and the importance of proper service. David mentions that it is important for sommeliers to understand the vintage and serve the wines at the correct temperature, and that the wines must be decanted properly, or they will lose their definition.
After a refreshing white port and tonic, press and candidates attended a masterclass covering the wines to give an idea of what the candidates were tasting. Guimaraens explained the history of Taylor’s before going on to explain the winemaking and differences between different styles of port.
Guimaraens conflated the description of port over the years with his own life. When 2 to 12 years old, the wines are fresh and fruity like a child. Following on from this, the contradictory teenage years, from 13 to 19, present more uncertainty: should it be consumed young or left to gain more complexity? Between 20 and 40 years old, the ports have matured but remain fruity. From 41 to 60 years old, there is more knowledge, some interesting complexity, yet still fresh fruits. The older years of 60 to 80 are when the ports (and people) slow down but are interesting, with not much fruit but lots of complexity.
Crucially for the sommeliers, Guimaraens explained that guessing the year of a Vintage port is based on several factors. Firstly, the bottle's maturity to place the port into a specific decade. Next, there is the structure and the fruit. Distinguishing between the ‘ripening years’ and ‘concentrating years’ is key. The ripening years provide a natural concentration of fresher berry fruit flavours, which are much more pleasant when consumed young. The concentrating years have more heat, causing the berries to shrivel, creating wines with tougher tannins that can age better.
Next is whether it is Classic, Non-Classic or Single Quinta, determined by how exceptional the vintages are. Lastly, the vintage year can be estimated from the characteristics of vintage years within each decade.
We then received a Port Tong Masterclass, wherein a pair of tongs were heated and used to cleanly open a bottle of Vintage port without damaging the cork or the bottle. It proved challenging even to the professional, and it was fascinating to witness the care and attention that must be taken to open a very special bottle of Vintage port.
The UK Sommelier Challenge
After being taken to a separate tasting room, the sommeliers were required to blind taste six vintage ports and provide:
- A detailed tasting note
- Naming the vintage year with a supporting rationale
- A suggested food pairing
The rest of us received a tasting of the same ports, where Guimaraens explained each wine and which years they were from, showcasing six of his favourites from each decade.
Wine 1 - 1970
The first one, 1970, is from a concentrating year, with lots of density and intensity of the fruit. It has a defined and grippy tannin, and a ripe fruit concentration. It is described as ‘rustic’ – unpolished, with tension and lots of bottle maturity providing a marzipan flavour. It has a pale colour is smoky, and also possible to taste the spirit.
Wine 2 - 1985
In this decade, bacterial problems threatened production; however, 1985 showcased the best of these years. In comparison to the 1970s, this wine is much more fruit-driven, and the spirit is less powerful. It is elegant and expresses rounded berry fruit with extra vibrancy from the maturity, presenting an energetic wine.
Wine 3 - 1994
The 90s, David describes, as the “transition from Father to Son.” This was a magical vintage, with the perfect balance of water and heat. The vines held onto the heat for much longer, “becoming teenagers much later.” There is a nice balance of fruit with a cleaner spirit, and ‘Taylor tannins’, which are firm and flavourful on the palate.
Wine 4 - 2004
This wine is one of Guimaraens’s favourites. It is a Single Quinta as opposed to a Classic Vintage, as they had already declared a Classic the year prior. It has a powerful, spirit-driven nose. On the palate, it is well-defined with soft tannins and an amazing length. It is a more floral wine, rather than fruity, with notes of rosehip.
Wine 5 - 2016
This wine represents the ultimate of ripening years, with a deep colour but little bottle maturity. It has vibrant fruit and a fresh palate which holds onto the fruit for longer. It is a beautiful wine, which he describes as neither volatile nor rustic, but rather straight and well-behaved.
Wine 6 - 2022
This wine is the 2022 Taylor’s Sentinals Single Quinta. It represents the most arid year however it comes from the much less arid Pinhão Valley. It is remarkably fresh, attractive to drink and serve younger, though it will age, and age quickly. David describes this as “the perfect young fruity port.”
After the event candidates had a week to refine their answers which were then submitted anonymously to be judged by Guimaraens.
And the results are:
Winner: Roxane Dupuy, Executive Sommelier, Row on 5
Runner up: Natasha Senina, Head Sommelier, Chewton Glen
Third: Danielle Greaves, Sommelier, Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester
Fourth: Roberto Zanca, Head Sommelier, Prithvi
Fifth: Jacopo Maroni, Head Sommelier, The Braywood Restaurant
Taylor’s is a family-run company, established in 1692, and one of the first historic port wine lodges. It is represented by Mentzendorff in the UK, a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about the click here.
