The decision of Mary Novak to carry on farming and producing wine at St Helena-based winery Spottswoode came the day after her husband Jack died on the tennis court, aged 44.
A man – or shall we just call him an ‘ambulance chaser’ – walked up the drive, rang on the doorbell, and said that he had heard that Mary’s husband had died the day before so was the house now up for sale? On the spur of the moment and without hesitation she said “No” and in that instant the legend that is Spottswoode was born.
One also hopes that Mary threw in a few extra words to send the man on his way.
Mary Novak flanked by daughters Beth and Lindy who now continue their mother's legacy
The tale, and more detailed background of this First-Growth Napa estate situated at the foot of the Mayacamas mountains, was relayed to us by brand ambassador Heather de Savoye at London’s Corrigan’s restaurant in Mayfair. Hosted by new importer Mentzendorff, this was a tasting lunch to celebrate 40 years of Spottswoode’s iconic Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and launch the 41st and new 2022 vintage of Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (the second one that Mentzendorff has handled).
The lunch, which was attended by a Who’s Who of key trade buyers was also a chance to taste two vintages of Spottswoode’s Bodeaux-leaning Sauvignon Blanc and, with the help of a panoply of library releases, to see how Estate Cabernet Sauvignon shapes up with age and sits within Napas hierarchy of fine wine.
Old school Napa
Although Spottswoode was founded in 1882 the genesis of fine wine production here really began in 1972 when Mary and Jack Novak sold everything and moved to Saint Helena with five children, two horses, a cat and a stone fountain wrapped in newspaper. It was the start of the wine craze with Robert Mondavi having just opened up, and newcomers like the Novaks (the Shafers, Duckhorns et al) arriving with crazy dreams and little or no experience in farming or making wine.
Speaking about the aftermath of her husband’s premature death five years after they arrived in Napa, Mary Novak said: “I faced a decision whether to move back south with the kids where family could help, or stay in St Helena to make a go of it. I was 45 years old with five young children and felt settled in the community with good friends. So I did what I had to do and continued the business of selling wine grapes from the estate vineyard to make a living.”
In 1985, legendary winemaker Tony Soter played a pivotal role in shaping the identity of Spottswoode as a leader in environmental responsibility.
The masterstroke was when Mary hired Tony Sooter as vineyard manager and head winemaker in 1982 to convert the estate to organic agriculture – this at a time when organics was considered to be ‘hocus pocus’. Since 2008 Spottswoode has also embraced biodynamic practices and three years ago achieved Regenerative Organic Certification.
Quite apart from enabling the vineyards to produce healthier, more terroir-expressive grapes the conversion to organics has been a Godsend both in terms of keeping alcohol in check (of the six vintages of Estate Cab Sauv. we tasted only one was over 14% abv) as well as coping with the vagaries of climate change. Both 2021 and 2022 were drought vintages in Napa, the latter seeing many estates unable to make a wine. “Our living soils crafted the wines,” De Savoye said.
It is the alluvial clay loam from the Sulphur Creek fan which provides superb drainage at Spottswoode Estate Vineyard, which is situated on the western edge of St. Helena, while cool maritime breezes between Spring Mountain and the Mayacamas range ensure even ripening. The vines are now an unbelievable 143 years old and still going strong.
Mary Novak died in 2016 and since then Spottswoode has been run by her children with Beth Novak heading up the estate as president and CEO.
Checking the last of the fruit in the glorious Estate Vineyard, 2023
2022 Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
The 2022 growing season began with much-needed rainfall as dry, warm conditions in late 2021 had left the vines with little stored water. Fruit set was thus light, and early irrigation was necessary. A healthy bloom in May led to a balanced growing season with moderate temperatures and no significant heat spikes until August. Despite a significant, brief heat spike in early September, proactive measures like shade cloth and deep irrigations maintained vine health. By September 23, all grapes arrived in excellent condition, showcasing ideal acidity and focused flavours.
Considering its youthfulness, the 2022 Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is in terrific shape, the tannins obviously young but cloaked with a melange of wild red and black fruit, vanilla pod, fire hearth and cocoa powder. The nose is pretty with violets, the mid-palate held by a core of decent acidity and there is a chalkiness to the finish. The wine paired well with Beef Wellington and girolles on the day but to drink it solo does require more time in the bottle, the individual parts not quite aligned at this stage. Even still it’s a stupendous wine.
A 3-pack of 2015, 2016 and 2017 Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Tasting six vintages of Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon with Corrigan's Beef Wellington
In addition to the new 2022 vintage, Mentzendorff is also actively selling a 3-pack of the 2015-7 vintages, all shown at lunch and all displaying the vintage variations you expect from First Growth vineyards.
The 2016 was my wine of the event, an instant stand-out, along with the 2021, showing the structure you’d expect from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon but with phenomenal poise, detail and balance. Both wines also had an ethereal element which would make them equal bedfellows of most First Growth Bordeaux.
It was with these two wines that you really connect with old school Napa (14% abv and 13.6% respectively), the style that’s synonymous with Diamond Creek – letting the terroir sing, unencumbered by over-ripening or over-extraction.
All three of the 2015-7 were different and spoke of their respective vintages. The 2015’s Napa ripeness would have been detected in a blind tasting, with decent acidity and micro-fine tannins providing balance. An attractive sour cherry note on the finish. The 2017 was less intense and had a blackcurrnat leaf note.
In addition…
The meal started with two vintages of Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc (2023 and 2024).
From the hottest summer ever in St. Helena the 2024 was surprisingly edgy and tense, a slight passion fruit sparkle on the mid-palate, crisp, nice detail and refreshing lemon and lime notes. The 2023 benefitted from longer hang time (bud break was very late) and was more rounded, broader with a nice chalky note in the mouth. Both wines have no malo and come from four different ageing vessels (including amphora).
We also tasted the 2022 Spottswoode Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon with cheese. I think the 2024 Savvy Blanc would have been a better pairing but this ‘gateway cuvée’ – a Cab Sauv-dominant Bordeaux blend acquitted itself very well its pixilated fine tannins working well with high acidity. Well worth the price around the £90 mark.
Spottswoode auction
Also part of the 40-year anniversary, Spottswoode last week auctioned a 40-vintage vertical of Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. The sale through Christie's achieved $32,500, smashing the estimate three-fold. The money raised was donated to Napa Green, an organisation that promotes sustainability within the wine industry.
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