Michael Silacci, who has been the winemaker at Opus One since 2001, was in town last week to share 21 vintages of this iconic wine founded by two passionate wine aficionados; Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi in the Napa Valley in 1979. It was originally called Napa Medoc, before being rebranded in 1982 as Opus One. Today the estate is jointly owned by Constellation Brands and Baroness Philippine de Rothschild’s company.
Opus One is a testament to the harmony between French tradition and Napa Valley terroir
Mondavi and Rothschild first met in 1970, at the Maura Kea Beach Hotel in Hawaii. Their aim was to combine the traditions of Bordeaux winemaking with the innovative and fruit-forward style of Napa to create their own unique prestigious wine.
Opus One has in recent years evolved through increased use of Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot as well as a positive move towards regenerative farming, in addition to purchasing a property at Atlas Peak, its first foray away from home base at Oakville. This location is located amongst forests and has a more active eco system that is consistent with a newfound focus on sustainable viticulture.
Over the past 20 years Silacci has trialled biodynamics, as well as organic, but sees regenerative farming the way forward
Silacci has built up significant teams to help him share the evolvement of Opus One, and we were introduced to Meghan Zobeck, newly appointed director of winemaking, who will format the future of Opus One.
Zobeck is relatively new to wine, starting in 2012, although her past career with the Denver Broncos negotiating player contracts puts her in a no-nonsense stature. Zobeck quickly gathered wine knowledge with harvests at Stag’s Leap, Screaming Eagle and gaining experience with wine consultant Philippe Melka as well as experiences in Bordeaux, Piedmont and the Barossa. More recently Zobeck was head winemaker at Burgess Cellars.
Meghan Zobeck, newly appointed director of winemaking
Silacci met Zobeck when she was showcasing her wines from Burgess Cellars at a wine event, with both winemakers keen to explore a fresher style and working towards a regenerative approach. Together with Kimberlee Marinelli, Silacci’s assistant winemaker and viticulturist, Zobeck began her journey with Opus One, helping to evolve this great wine.
Over the past 20 years Silacci has trialled biodynamics, as well as organic, but sees regenerative farming the way forward and, since 2022, the estate now works with permanent cover crops between the vines, helping lower temperatures in the canopies, retain water in the soils and lengthen the ripening period without increasing sugar levels. They have also been experimenting with dry farming since 2007, reducing irrigation across the estate.
“It’s a fresher style and to keep that we have to farm differently.” Michael Silacci, winemaker Opus One Winery
Zobeck highlights that Opus One is not a stereotypical Napa of the early 2000s. “It’s a fresher style and to keep that we have to farm differently.” Alcohol too is coming down, to an average of 13.5% from highs of 15%.
The transition of not only the wine but of the team continues with Silacci still planning to be around for a few more years. For myself I was transfixed by the quality and delicate lightness of these wines especially in the last decade. These are majestic wines that age with great grace and are getting finer and more in tune with a style of wine that more people are searching for, pure seamless with delicate but layered structure and seamless length.
The cost is around £300 a bottle on release which, in terms of other notable Californian and Bordeaux wines, offers exceptional value for consumers who are happy to pay for quality.
The tasting was hosted in the Marlborough Room at 67 Pall Mall to a select group of eight journalists. The tasting was conducted from oldest vintage onwards.
Opus One 2022
Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Petit Verdot 8%, Cabernet Franc 6.5%, Merlot 5%, Malbec 0.5%
Blueberry and rose petals - bright zingy fresh vibrant fruit - cocoa spice - some tangy clementine and mandarin notes - bright clean notes, charming. There are hints of graphite cassis, cocoa, the wine is juicy but restrained, seamless with a beautiful, delicate, refined finish, leaving you eager for more.
Opus One 2021
Cabernet Sauvignon 93%, Petit Verdot 2%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Merlot 0.5%, Malbec 0.5%
Black cherry and marzipan - wedding cake - violets just stunning, creamy fresh vibrant, fresh vibrancy, and wow what a wine - delicate lovely concentration and freshness in one - cherry spice - essence of blackberry. Black tea, hints of liquorice and Tanzania chocolate.
Opus One 2020 - not released for sale due to smoke taint - although a small amount was produced.
Opus One 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon 78%, Petit Verdot 6%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Merlot 8%, Malbec 2%
Dark plum notes, blackcurrant, currant, aniseed, fresh and pure, delicate and refined - there is a darkness but then the body is so light - a perfect harmony between darkness and lightness - yin and yang. The balance of freshness and intense aromatics is beautiful, this is so poised.
Opus One 2018
Cabernet Sauvignon 84%, Petit Verdot 6%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Merlot 5%, Malbec 1%
Dark, perfumed, elegant, dark berry - blackberry - fresh and luscious, pretty seamless - this is a juicy wine that has hints of clementine and spice - think Christmas satsumas - smooth balanced. Great balance, smooth delicate long lingering notes.
Opus One 2017
Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Petit Verdot 9%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Merlot 5%, Malbec 1%
Pure, focused, clean, cocoa and spice – silky, dark pure cassis - rose buds, graphite, pencil shaving, lovely dark cherry notes. This is quite forward now and drinking well but will age gracefully. A seductive dark wine that is so supple on the finish.
Opus One 2016
Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Petit Verdot 8%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Merlot 8%, Malbec 2%
Funky herbaceous note, umami, cassis, sage, layered and textured with a beautiful poise sitting there evolving perfectly – bright, clean, fresh, ripe, juicy notes of elegance - bitter and hints of sweet Welsh lamb giving it an umami feel. Juicy and glowing on the palate, there is a lovely freshness to this wine, sumptuous and aromatic.
Opus One 2015
Cabernet Sauvignon 81%, Petit Verdot 4%, Cabernet Franc 7%, Merlot 6%, Malbec 2%
15% alcohol and a difficult year which saw the harvest finishedon October 8th - blackberry crumble – silky, opulent - black tea, sage and spice, inky, blackberry essence, blueberry muffins, granite pencil shaving, rich and dark with a juicy fresh finish, aged white port notes. A nod to the old style but this is evolving and gives a lovely smack.
Opus One 2014
Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Petit Verdot 7%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Merlot 5% and Malbec 2%
Perfumed, herbaceous, bitter, blackcurrant - fresh and vibrant - mocha and spice, forest floor, plums, damsons and spice - aromatic and floral. A wine to age, very refined with lots of complexity, mocha and red cherries followed by dark black fruit.
Opus One 2013
Cabernet Sauvignon 79%, Petit Verdot 6%, Cabernet Franc 7%, Merlot 6%, Malbec 2%
Delicate blend of just-ripe berries, rose buds, shaved fennel, Tanzanian chocolate, liquorice spice, tobacco, lemon, fresh and zingy on the finish, lovely complexity and layers - purple notes - spiced elegance with a lovely meaty rib eye note. Blueberries and blackberries in harmony.
Opus One 2012
Cabernet Sauvignon 79%, Cabernet Franc 7%, Petit Verdot 6%, Merlot 6%, and Malbec 2%
Red cherries, marzipan, perfumed red roses, liquorice and spice, black pepper, tea, graphite/coal, coke, gentle espresso, juicy aromatic, lots of berries and lovely mouthfeel - perfumed nose, dark effusive notes, evolves beautifully in the glass.
Opus One 2011
Cabernet Sauvignon 71%, Merlot 11%, Petit Verdot 9%, Cabernet Franc 8%, and Malbec 1%
Bitterness, cassis, cocoa, bay, black tea and white pepper, juicy red fruit, polished. Has a touch of tobacco on finish, a cigar leaf dryness on the palate, then a basket full of fruit, cranberries, ripe cherries, loganberries. Evolves in the glass giving a creamy texture, will age well.
Opus One 2010
Cabernet Sauvignon 84%, Cabernet Franc 5.5%, Merlot 5.5%, Petit Verdot 4%, and Malbec 1%
Lovely herbaceous notes, dark cocoa, olive, bitterness, rich, velvety and deep and then a delicate focus with mineral notes, hedgerow herbs and berries. Great freshness to this wine giving great potential to age.
Opus One 2009
Cabernet Sauvignon 81%, Cabernet Franc 9%, Petit Verdot 6%, Merlot 3%, and Malbec 1%
Tingling fresh ripe cola and espresso, cocoa, dark chocolate and dark blueberries, rich and textured, tapenade, juicy, meaty umami, luscious and lingering, fresh and evolving beautifully - the Cabernet Franc coming to the fore.
Opus One 2008
Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Petit Verdot 8%, Merlot 4%, Cabernet Franc 1%, and Malbec 1%
Bitter notes, rose petals, cassis and dark cherries, steelier, muscular, graphite, needs time, on the finish you find elegant, perfumed spice with a touch of charcoal, and a meaty note. Marzipan and cherries, great freshness on the finish, with hints of Christmas spices.
Opus One 2007
Cabernet Sauvignon 79%, Merlot 8%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 6%, and Malbec 1%
Dark fruited, juicy opulent, cassis, pepper, cola, truffles, nutmeg, Dundee cake – a gloriously full flavoured wine and one to age for decades. Raspberries and Venezuela dark chocolate notes. Seamless on the finish.
Opus One 2006
Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 12%, Cabernet Franc 5%,Petit Verdot 3%, and Malbec 3%
Bitter dark olives, graphite, cured ham, blackberry essence, a touch of espresso but a touch light (the vintage had lots of rainfall) - clean and focused - lovely lightness - the classic purple olive. Silky and full of flavour, delicate, fresh, lingering finish.
Opus One 2005
Cabernet Sauvignon 88%, Merlot 5%, Petit Verdot 3%, Cabernet Franc 3%, and Malbec 1%
A cool vintage. South African blueberries to the fore, silky and bright acidity in harmony, cool vanilla spice, raspberries, dark chocolate fondant, thyme and black tea essence - twinkles on the palate - delivered well for a 20 year old - seamless – outstanding, mouth-filling, gorgeous, pure heaven.
Opus One 2004
Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Merlot 7%, Petit Verdot 4%, Cabernet Franc 2%, and Malbec 1%
Tea and dark perfumed nose, perfume and violets continue, black pepper, juicy red fruit, cassis, bilberries and blueberries, Fresh, clean, precise, but with great intensity and purity, dark notes but focused and linear.
Opus One 2003
Cabernet Sauvignon 91%, Cabernet Franc 3%, Petit Verdot 3%, Merlot 2%, and Malbec 1%
Brambles and blackberries – granite, coal, cocoa, dried fruit but luscious rich sultanas. Olive oil, silky sweet white cherries, cool, vibrant and focused, light touch with a touch of liquor on finish, grilled rhubarb syrup. Very Bordeaux in style.
Opus One 2002
Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Merlot 6%, Cabernet Franc 3%, Malbec 3%, and Petit Verdot 2%
Damsons and plums - strawberry crush – luscious, bitter, herbaceous, hedgerow - silky smooth with a lovely bittersweet note - BBQ meat - cocoa and espresso, spice - blackberry soufflé. Hint of flint and matchstick.
Opus One 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon 87%, Merlot 6%, Malbec 3%, Cabernet Franc 2%, and Petit Verdot 2%
Bright cassis, elegant perfume - bright acidity, coal, cigar, cedar, vanilla spice, luscious, deep, rich, complex flavours - dark cocoa, bitter Tanzanian chocolate- purity is immense - wow - a great way to start the tasting, this has evolved perfectly and drinks beautifully.
