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Wirra Wirra’s Matt Deller on how we must embrace era of 'drinking less'

Wirra Wirra’s Matt Deller on how we must embrace era of 'drinking less'

“We are not witnessing the end of wine, nor the demonisation of alcohol. But we are seeing the normalisation of drinking less. The age of wine as an automatic, habitual part of adult life is behind us. What comes next is more deliberate, more considered and, I would argue, more interesting.” As global drinking patterns shift from routine to ritual, Matthew Deller MW explores how Wirra Wirra, in the heart of Australia’s McLaren Vale, is embracing this new era with authenticity, sustainability and wines that earn their place at the table. We have not, he says, hit “crisis” point yet, but there is now a very clear “invitation” to the wine industry “to be better”. Here Deller sets out the steps he thinks producers need to take to make wines that are relevant and meaningful in today’s society.

Matthew Deller MW
12th May 2025by Matthew Deller MW
posted in Opinion,

Times are changing. Just last year I was in an outback pub that looked like it belonged on the set of Crocodile Dundee. On tap was a zero-alcohol beer. Going back 10 years and this sort of ‘watering hole’ would have not even considered stocking such a beer, let alone putting it on tap.

Even wine strongholds are seeing a change. The restaurant setting where a whole table now orders sparkling water, not as a statement, as a choice. The bottle left unfinished at dinner. The friend who opts out midweek, not for health reasons, but because they are just not feeling it.

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Matt Deller MW with Wirra Wirra's chief winemaker Emma Wood

We are not witnessing the end of wine, nor the demonisation of alcohol. But we are seeing the normalisation of drinking less. The age of wine as an automatic, habitual part of adult life is behind us. What comes next is more deliberate, more considered and, I would argue, more interesting.

The challenge for wine is not to resist this shift. It is to evolve with it. If people are drinking less often, what they choose has to matter more. It must resonate, reflect their values and feel worth the moment.

That is not a crisis. It is an invitation to be better.

At Wirra Wirra, we’ve taken that invitation seriously. We are rethinking what we make, how we farm and how we connect with the wine drinker of today and the wine drinker of the future.

Authenticity rooted in place and people

Great wine starts with great farming. At Wirra Wirra, we farm organically and biodynamically, with a focus on soil health, biodiversity and minimal irrigation. In McLaren Vale, we work with growers who share this mindset. These are long term partnerships built on shared values and respect for the land.

In 2024, we secured new parcels in the Clarendon sub-region to further refine our sourcing for flagship wines. These sites bring added aromatic lift and structure, and are managed with the same low intervention approach as our estate blocks.

In the winery, we continue to invest in precision tools, small batch fermenters and tailored oak programs, all with the goal of revealing vineyard character rather than imposing style.

The new relevance equation

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Wirra Wirra is looking to make wines that are relevant and meaningful and fit into a culture of drinking less but better

Wine is no longer the default. It must now earn its place, not just through quality, but by offering meaning, integrity and a sense of occasion.

At Wirra Wirra, we are building a wine culture that is characterful, transparent and intentional. In 2024, we introduced the Single Vineyard Collection. These are not wines designed for scale. They are shaped by site and season, crafted for people who want wine to connect them to place.

We have also evolved Church Block, now more than fifty vintages strong, with new varietal expressions that broaden its relevance while staying true to its roots. These are not just portfolio extensions. They are invitations for consumers to find their own connection point with the brand.

In May 2024 we launched the ‘In Our Element’ campaign which heroes our region, our biodynamically farmed vineyards, century old cellars and our skilled winemaking and viticulture teams. We listened to consumers and they told us they wanted to connect with the real side of winemaking and the people that make it.

We do not assume attention. We earn it, through wines that deliver, stories that resonate and values that reflect how people want to drink today

Our wines and where they fit

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Matt Deller MW says wine has to work even harder to find its place on a restaurant table

Our portfolio is structured to serve modern drinking occasions, from everyday premium to fine dining and collector tiers. We focus on the classic red varieties of McLaren Vale and the white varieties of the Adelaide Hills. We are not trying to be a catch all brand, as people drink less often, they will be more considerate of what they drink, looking for brands that specialise in the varieties and style they like.

Church Block remains our foundation. A trusted, expressive red blend from McLaren Vale that performs strongly in retail and hospitality across the UK.

The Single Vineyard Collection focuses on texture, restraint and site definition. Sourced from blocks in Whites Valley and Blewitt Springs, they are made for sommeliers and fine wine buyers seeking Australian wines with quiet confidence.

Our flagship reds, RSW Shiraz, The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon and The Absconder Grenache, are small volume releases from old vine sites. These wines deliver structure, detail and longevity. They are already listed in leading independents and restaurants.

Our aim is not range for the sake of it. It is to offer distinctive, expressive wines that reflect place, purpose and the evolving role wine plays in people’s lives.

Sustainability that shapes the glass

Sustainability is no longer optional. It is expected. And it must be real.

At Wirra Wirra, it is the foundation of everything we do. Our estate vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic. Ninety five per cent of our growers are on track for Sustainable Winegrowing Australia certification by 2025. This reflects years of alignment and joint commitment.

In the winery, we take a low input approach. We have reduced energy use, introduced smart systems, and restructured our production footprint. In 2024, we launched a custom lightweight bottle that will cut our carbon emissions by10%. Off-site storage has been reduced by 60%. Our packaging is now fully recyclable without compromising premium appeal.

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Sustainability also means people. We have had zero lost time injuries since 2022. We invest in wellbeing, leadership and a culture of care and accountability. For us, sustainability is not a program. It is how we operate every day.

There is more to do. But our direction is clear. True sustainability supports not just wine, but the land, people and communities that make it possible.

Where wine goes from here

The future of wine will not be built on nostalgia. It will be built on relevance, earned through trust, integrity and distinction.

We must make wines that are characterful, not generic. We must farm with purpose, and engage with drinkers on their terms. Most of all, we must treat wine not as a habit, but as a meaningful experience.

If we get that right, wine will not just survive the post peak era. It will thrive within it. Because when people drink with intention, what they choose has never mattered more.

* You can find out more about Wirra Wirra and its wines here.