Margaret River is one of the most isolated fine wine regions on Earth, second only to Great Southern a little further down the road. And while this is an interesting point to ponder, you may wonder - what difference does it make? Well, quite a bit, in fact. These regions on the southwest coast of Australia have been culturally shaped by their remoteness, with the forced isolation fostering a collegial and collaborative community of producers.
While it's not devoid of healthy competition, there’s certainly a ‘rising tide lifts all boats’ ethos that permeates this relatively young player in the wine scene. Even the advent of the information age has not dulled this sensibility, and for us lucky IWSC judges, this was put on full display over the course of several fascinating tours and illuminating tastings.
The IWSC judging panel gave record scores to Margaret River producers
Cared for by the Wadandi People for over 50,000 years, the region has become an important biodiversity hotspot. Surrounded by pristine ocean on three sides, the area is rich with diverse bushland containing the world’s most ancient soils and plant species, found nowhere else around the world. It’s a veritable playground for lovers of the outdoors and artisanal produce, with world-class surf breaks, incredible underground caves, and, of course, top-flight wineries and restaurants.
For some context, to the west of Margaret River lies some 8,500 kilometres of uninterrupted ocean before Africa; to the south, about 3,000 kilometres before Antarctica. Melbourne, on the opposite side of Australia, sits just over 3,500 kilometres away.
For further perspective, the north-south span of France is only about 930 kilometres. It’s a prestigious region, making up only 2% of Australia’s annual crush but a significant 20% of the fine wine market. Over the past two decades, Margaret River and its surrounding regions have refined their stylistic identities, moving from richer, more heavily ‘worked’ wines to a focus on elegance, precision, and textural complexity.
Australian vintages are often painted with a broad brush, yet Margaret River is a unique, self-contained entity. Its moderate Mediterranean climate is shaped by its huge maritime influence thanks to the convergence of the Indian and Southern oceans. Six loosely defined subregions cluster close to the coastline, with only one entirely inland.
Constant maritime winds cool the vineyards overnight, with the hero varieties of Chardonnay and Cabernet exhibiting depth, concentration, and power while still maintaining freshness and elegance.
Put to the test
Sarah Abbott MW was head of the judging panel
A carefully curated team of eight judges, spanning buyers, sommeliers, and wine writers from both the UK and Australia, was assembled to put - not just Margaret River - but Western Australian wine to the test. The team was led by Sarah Abbott MW, whose vast experience and astute wine mind played a vital role in guiding the process.
The rest of the panel included myself; Joseph Arthur, senior buyer at Marks & Spencer; Rebecca Palmer, associate director Corney & Palmer; Vincenzo Arnese, wine director Raffles London; Andrew Caillard MW, Australian fine wine expert; Annette Lacey MW group beverage director for Australian hospitality group Solotel; and Gabrielle Poy of Prince Wine Store in Melbourne.
Over three days, the judges assessed more than 200 wines across two panels. The medals were not awarded lightly, with re-tasting and robust but respectful discussion given to those in contention.
The results confirmed Western Australia’s quality trajectory, with 39 golds, 97 silvers, and 73 bronze medals awarded. This is the highest gold medal count over the three consecutive years of IWSC judging in Margaret River, which is not only reflective of the high quality of the 2023 vintage but also of the overall quality trajectory in the region.
With an average score of 90.5 across all entries and 65% of wines earning silver or gold medals, Margaret River has established itself as a region capable of consistent excellence at accessible price points.
The best of the Chardonnay wines exhibited both power and finesse, with classic fruit intensity, judicious oak and lees influence, fine-spun texture, and structural integrity, thanks to firm phenolics and saline acidity.
Vincenzo Arnese, wine director at Raffles in London, was part of the judging panel
Rebecca Palmer was blown away by the quality of the Savagnin wines in the judging
The judges were impressed by the overall quality, with consistent commentary around refined evolution.
“The strength of Chardonnay is really impressive,” says Andrew Caillard MW. “These results help demonstrate to a Eurocentric audience that Margaret River Chardonnay offers far better value than Premier Cru White Burgundy.”
Corney & Barrow’s Rebecca Palmer agrees: “We were spoiled by the range of Chardonnays, many fashioned in the Burgundian style, but most showing the wonderful natural freshness of the region, so refreshing in an overheated world.”
She adds: ”These Chardonnays have merit and an even greater place in our glasses and cellars, particularly in terms of value for money at the premium level, when classic world regions have become inaccessible for so many consumers,
The other regional high-performer, Cabernet Sauvignon, also impressed, with much praise for the elegant and perfumed aromatics interplaying with wonderful density and tannin integration.
But it wasn’t just the classics that caught the judges’ attention - the quality of alternative varieties also deserved our attention.
Annette Lacey MW says: “A Savagnin was a standout, with strong contenders in Semillon and Chenin Blanc.”
Palmer agrees: "This outstanding single varietal Savagnin stopped us in our steps - a thrilling wine, beautifully made. The most extraordinary Savagnin - simply the most delicious example of the variety and demonstrating the versatility, aspiration and potential of the region."
Specialist tastings
The IWSC judging team had a Margaret River masterclass in Cabernet Sauvignon at Leeuwin Estate
It wasn’t all about the judging with the judges' itinerary laden with a myriad of exciting tasting experiences. A Margaret River Cabernet masterclass was enlightening for the group. Held in the art gallery at Leeuwin Estate, winemakers from several leading producers of Cabernet served two wines each: one from 2014 and another from 2020.
Much discussion ensued around the evolution of viticulture and winemaking over those six years and beyond, with the age-worthiness of these wines on full display.
A ‘walkabout’ Chardonnay tasting was also held at Howard Park, where leading producers from the region poured a back-vintage offering alongside a more current release.
Australian wine has seen a rapid quality revolution over the past two decades, yet it still suffers from an outdated global reputation of ‘sunshine in a glass’ and ‘critter wines.’ Those beating the drum for Aussie wine in global markets are affecting change, but change takes time.
Results such as these from the 2025 IWSC global judging in Margaret River make for incontrovertible proof, however, that the true state of Australian wine is more exciting than ever.
Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for Jasper Morris’ Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson’s Inside Bordeaux.
The full results of the IWSC judging in Margaret River, in partnership with Margaret River Wine Association, can be seen here: Margaret River Results: Western Australia's Wine Renaissance | IWSC. You can read more about IWSC’s global judging campaign here: Global Judging | IWSC International Wine & Spirit Competition.
