Gaia Gaja noted, during her introduction to a celebration of 30 years of Ca'Marcanda, that ‘excellence’ can be found where people least expect it, and that “great wines are not linked to a specific region”; so, when her father was looking for pastures new the Bolgheri region (which had always had an international flair associated to it) seemed the ideal region, together with the climatic and soil benefits of this coastal zone.
The cool sea breeze on one side and the cooling mountain air help control the heat. Another benefit of this region is that the majority of the workforce are locals and many have been with the family for between 25 and 30 years.
A bold vision in Bolgheri
When Angelo Gaja arrived in Bolgheri in 1996 there were fewer than 10 wineries there, now there are over 60. Gaia suggested that her father had a mid-life crisis but, rather than cheat on his wife he cheated on Nebbiolo, introducing Merlot and Cabernets to his portfolio.
Since those early pioneering days Angelo has been focussing on how to combat climate change for over 20 years, whilst Gaia said her goal is to establish “Italianity” (this was from Gaia’s lexicon), by which she meant searching for the “purity of the fruit, expressing the territory and having a clean focus on highlighting the ingredient.”
Introducing growth between the vines has helped do away with pesticides
There is an abundance of soil types in Bolgheri, from marine sediments, limestone and clay to rocks from the “metal mountains” from the old copper and marble mines which are scattered across the hills.
From the outset, Angelo hired Andrea Lucchi, a specialist in dealing with the effects of over-use of chemical pesticides, which had led to resistance in troublesome insects. By moving away from pesticides and introducing growth between the vines such as fava beans and flowers, other insects have been encouraged such as ladybirds and butterflies which have helped evolve the quality and purity of these vines.
Tasting the Camarcanda wines – 2000 to 2023
Gaia explained how Merlot has been removed from the blend since 2015 to give a lighter style – the blend is now 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc.
Compared to the early labels - more focus is on the name of the wine Camarcanda, and less on the neame of the estate Ca'Marcanda. Gaja is also not on the front label.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2023 – wet year
Cranberry, delicate perfume, rhubarb, violets, raspberry and frangipane, on the lighter side not a classic Bolgheri, according to Gaia – juicy and fresh, I love the purity and freshness, floral, iris, evolves well.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2022 – dry and hot year
Dark crimson, plummy, but lovely purity, focused, with a lovely dark elegance, restraint, fresh minerality, dried rhubarb, red currants and smoky aromas, lovely concentration but fresh flavours.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2021- dry and cooler vintage
Rich and full of lively acidity and freshness – sage, menthol, bitter chocolate – lingers and leaves an intriguing dark, plummy, black-fruited note with sweet tobacco – a wine of great elegance.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2020 – cool rainy year
Saline nose (Gaia called it a ‘marine note’ I would say seashore); stunning meaty notes but clean blueberries – savoury with focus, complex and coastal shrubs, I like the freshness and focus with long aftertaste.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2019
Umami with dark red berries, still focused with great purity, juicy, fruit forward, delicate herbs and spice, silky purity and luscious, long but bright finish. The purity and freshness is pretty perfect here.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2016
Meaty with a savoury herbaceous edge, full of bright energy, dark red fruits, cocoa spice, juicy, bright, dark finish, highlighting the Cab Franc. The focus on the finish is fabulous – as it evolves it shows how pure and classy it is as a wine. Outstanding.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2015 – warm season – picked earlier
Vibrant with bright dark berries, violets and sage, cocoa and spice, serious wine, cool and spicy, great elegance and brightness, love the focus on this. So well balanced.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2007
(50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc)
Perfume with blueberry dust – dark, ripe, juicy with strong freshness with a blue fruited note, essence and focus, still bright and fresh but has more of a umami note with cassis and cocoa, dark bitter chocolate, fresh with salinity still here, it evolves on the palate leaving a Dundee cake spice note with lovely fruit.
Camarcanda DOC Bolgheri Rosso 2000
(50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc)
Savoury with an excellent focus, clean, linear, pure with delicate earthy notes balanced with dark berries. Classy notes of espresso granules, balanced by luscious, juicy dark fruit. Drinking well now.
Lunch
The masterclass was held in 67 Pall Mall. Afterwards we moved to Café Murano for lunch –we also changed regions moving to one of Gaja’s Tuscan properties, Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta.
Pieve Santa Restituta is located in the southwest subzone of the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG appellation. This winery became part of the Gaja family in 1994. This was its first acquisition outside of Piedmont.
The two-signature crus are bottled under site-specific names; Rennina and Sugarille, whilst the classic Pieves Restitua Brunello di Montalcino is from a blend sourced across its 40 acres of vineyards (first released in 2005), and the early release Pieves Restituta Rosso di Montalcino 2024 delivers value and pristine quality.
That 'light' lunch menu in full
The wines of Ca’Marcanda are imported and sold in the UK through Hatch Mansfield which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
