The collaboration between Sam Barry and Erni Loosen began with a shared passion for Riesling and a desire to blend Australian and German winemaking traditions. Their journey started in the mid-1980s, when Loosen first met Peter Barry, son of Jim Barry, founder of Jim Barry Wines, in London. However, it wasn’t until 2016 that Loosen proposed making a Riesling together in Australia, with the stipulation that it be crafted in the traditional German style: using indigenous yeast and ageing for two years in the barrel on full lees, just as Loosen’s great grandfather had done.
When Barry met Loosen - in the Wolta Wolta block
This partnership led to the creation of the iconic Wolta Wolta Riesling, produced from the Lodge Hill vineyard in Clare Valley. The fruit for this wine is left to hang longer than the rest of the vineyard, then aged for a year in large oak foudres, imparting savoury complexity and texture reminiscent of Erni’s Grosses Gewächs wines.
The tasting, hosted at 67 Pall Mall and compered by wine writer Guy Woodward, also involved comparing LoosenBarry wines with other notable bottles from each producer’s portfolio, including Jim Barry Wines’ The Florita and Dr Loosen’s GG Rieslings.
Historical roots
Spring Farm, now a key Jim Barry Wines vineyard, has deep roots dating back to the early colonial days of South Australia. Originally part of the Wolta Wolta pastoral run established in 1839, the land evolved from a prestigious horse stud in the 1920s to a vineyard in 1979, when the Barrys planted their first Riesling vines. The estate was eventually reunited under the Spring Farm name in 2006, and today it is divided into three distinct parcels.
Despite Loosen’s current stature, it was not easy for him to break into the UK market, he recalled back in 1982 that to get on the ladder he got hold of the ‘Yellow Pages’ and rang distributors from a pay phone in London, whilst staying in a cockroach infested B&B. Loosen was trying to promote single vineyard Riesling whilst Britain bathed in Blue Nun. Then life changed for the sharp-witted German, and he met Walter Siegel importers, and established an inroad for his fine wines into the UK.
Innovation and tradition
The Barrys have always been innovators, especially with The Florita vineyard. They bought the vineyard in 1986, during a period when Chardonnay was more profitable than Riesling. Despite financial challenges, their vision for quality Riesling persisted, and today Jim Barry Wines produces over 15 different Rieslings, with The Florita trademark finally secured in 2004 after 18 years.The Watervale Riesling became the biggest-selling premium white wine in Australia.
The Wolta Wolta Riesling
The Wolta Wolta Riesling is made from a single vineyard block planted in 1979. The process involves pressing and settling in stainless steel, then aging in German oak fuder, followed by two extra years on oak. Half of the production is held back for later releases, with ten years considered the sweet spot for maturity. The first vintage, 2016, was held back until 2026, marking a milestone as the first Australian Riesling to break the 100 AUD price barrier.
Loosen’s influence is clear in the wine’s style: clean, pure, and elegant, with a creamy texture and harmonious complexity. The collaboration shows how traditional German techniques can enhance the classic Australian Riesling, moving away from the sharp lime profile to a more textured, age-worthy wine.
Not all smiles and shrimps on the barbie
Loosen was insistent that the wines would be bottled under cork, and duly sent bottles and corks to South Australia, these however went missing! And the wines were bottled and continue to be bottled under stelvin, luckily this was the only disagreement the two families had.
Tasting the wines
Jim Barry The Florita Riesling 2015
From the best five hectare site, stainless steel, cold ferment and bottled that year, destemmed fruit, press 50% free run, does not hang around on lees, development is in bottle “all about the ageing”. Toasty, lime, lime curd, ‘Roses’ lime marmalade, ginger spice, stone fruit, and fresh grip.
Jim Barry The Florita Riesling 2024
Pure essence, restrained lime, fresh acidity, focused, approachable – clementine, orange blossom, white floral notes, wild lavender.
Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling 2012
Floral, tangerine fruit, luscious, earthy, spiced, creamy, textured. Layers of flavour, quince, herbs, hint of air from the cork closure.
Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling 2019
Seamless, pure and focused with a backbone of delicate, refined fruit (from the slate-less spice garden vineyard), citrus curd. The red volcanic soil gives the wine more herbs and spices; this evolves well with a great texture but not creamy, balanced.
Loosenbarry ‘Wolta Wolta’ Dry Riesling 2016 (released in 2026)
Bottled in 2018 and not released until February 2026! Purity, freshness, perfect, layers and layers, spiced, textured freshness – wow this is classy.
So clean and pure, it does not have that Aussie Riesling sharpness, it is a touch creamy, it has elegance and a linear perfection, dry and aromatic, harmonious, complex.
Loosenbarry ‘Wolta Wolta’ Dry Riesling 2017 (released in 2020)
Savoury, spiced, hints of tropical notes, quince, smoky, flint, lemon blossom, juicy fine tinned apricots, texture, peeled stone fruit, gentle, relaxed, clean, pure, very fresh but still has complexity.
Loosenbarry ‘Wolta Wolta’ Dry Riesling 2018 (released in 2021)
Bright, clean, razor sharp, stone fruit is restrained, racy, stone, mineral then some quince, tiny bit of peach, clean cut. Sweetness of fruit showing well.
Loosenbarry ‘Wolta Wolta’ Dry Riesling 2019 (released in 2022)
Restrained, pure, cool, clean cut with hints of minerality. The fruit is a touch closed but will open up, creamier and in slumber.
Loosenbarry ‘Wolta Wolta’ Dry Riesling 2020 (released in 2023)
Fragrant with white stone fruit essence, great balance from chalky-flinty notes with a rounded feel, bright acidity and freshness, lovely balance with white nectarine, clementine and slate notes.
Loosenbarry ‘Wolta Wolta’ Dry Riesling 2021 (released in 2024)
Cool year, buttery, peach Melba, white flowers, textured, chalky, dried lemon rind, cool, fresh purity on the finish, concentrated and focused, bright, clean.
Loosenbarry ‘Wolta Wolta’ Dry Riesling 2022 (released in 2025)
Super cool year – hints of beeswax, fresh lemon curd, zippy freshness, muted slightly, just youthful but there is a wonderful complexity and layers of delicate refined notes, wildflowers,
Loosenbarry ‘Wolta Wolta’ Dry Riesling 2023 (released in 2026)
An even cooler year than 2022 – fresh, zesty, zingy, cool, fresh youthful, quince, a touch grippy, riper notes; lay down and wait a decade for this – could become the best in a decade.
Loosenbarry ‘Slate Hill’ Dry Riesling 2023
Stainless steel and rested on lees, this first vintage is a gateway into the GG Walter Walter but a more modestly priced wine made for early drinking; clean, focused with citrus lime notes, peaches, and chalky notes.
Hallgarten & Novum Wines imports the wines in the UK. It has also announced that it has added to its German portfolio, Ernst Loosen’s Dr Loosen wines from the Mosel and Villa Wolf wines from the Pfalz.
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