Founded by an engineer and a lawyer from Piedmont in 1899, Sella & Mosca is the largest producer on the island. From 2002, the estate was owned by Campari Group, until it was bought by Terra Moretti in 2016. Terra Moretti owns six wineries in Sardinia, Franciacorta and Tuscany. In Sardinia it is embracing the history of Sella & Mosca and the unique terroirs on the island.
Monteoro vineyard
On a trip to discover more about this producer, we arrive at Olbia in the east of the island, before heading up winding mountain roads to Monteoro vineyard, the ‘golden mountain’ at the heart of the region of Gallura. Vermentino di Gallura is the first and only DOCG on the island, and Vermentino is really at its best here, grown on granite soils and showing herbal notes of the surrounding Mediterranean scrubland.
The landscape here is much hillier than I had imagined it would be, with views stretching for miles to the Mediterranean coast and a sun-drenched rugged landscape cooled by the Mistral.
We try the Monteoro Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG 2024 in the vineyard (accompanied by the most delicious, filled focaccia). The wine is a great example of the combination of ‘collini e mare’ (hills and sea) in this region: it is floral, salty, peachy and textured, opening up in the glass to reveal orange oil and dried herbs, with good acidity and a mineral streak.
The vineyard here is in a state of transition, with some of the older vines being replanted. The stiff breeze up at 450m helps to keep disease pressure low but weather stations are used to preview conditions and act in advance, and soil humidity is measured to improve the understanding of when to irrigate in a more sustainable way.
After exploring the hillside vineyards of Gallura, we head west to Alghero to see the heart of Sella & Mosca's operation. The vineyards here are much flatter than in Monteoro. With almost 700ha of which 520ha are under vine on one very large plot of land, this is one of the largest single vineyards in Europe.
The 520 ha vineyard at Alghero is one of the largest single vineyards in Europe
Plantings are mostly Vermentino, followed by Torbato (a white grape championed by Sella & Mosca and used mostly for sparkling wine) followed by Cannonau (a Sardinian clone of Grenache) and local red variety Monica, with some international varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
This large estate started as a vine nursery offering vines and rootstocks post-phylloxera Europe. The rocky land had to be intensively worked to enable vines to be planted. Those vineyards still surround the small workers’ village that was built on the site including a church, houses and even a school.
The new hotel complex at Sella & Mosca
Two years ago, the company opened a boutique hotel, restaurant and enoteca at the estate, offering public tours of the winery and events including live music, continuing a legacy of wine tourism which has been part of Sella & Mosca since the first winery was built in 1903.
The original 1903 winery
Winemaker Giovanni Pinna has been at Sella & Mosca for 25 years and is clearly passionate about Sardinian wine. He takes us through a tasting of Sella & Mosca wines focussing on its flagship grapes: Torbato, Vermentino and Cannonau.
We start with discovering Torbato sparklings, fresh, floral and easy drinking in Charmat method, while Oscarì 2022 stands out as a 100% Torbato traditional method sparkling which spends 24 months on the lees, with almond biscotti and white flowers on the nose, and ripe orchard fruit.
The Tintas range of Cala Reale, Anemone and Medeus is meant to reflect the colours of Sardinia from golden dawn to pink sunset and dark night. Cala Reale Vermentino di Sardegna 2024 is aromatic with peach, apricot and pineapple and a saline, nutty nose. Anemone Alghero Rosato 2024 is a fresh, juicy rosé made from Cannonau showing ripe red cherries and light florals; and Medeus Cannonau di Sardegna 2024 is a fresh and easy-drinking unoaked Cannonau with juicy red and black cherries and soft tannins.
Ambat 2023 shows Vermentino in a different style, with a little skin contact and a small amount of new oak bringing a smoky nose but not overwhelming the aromatic fruit and floral notes.
While Vermentino is the most planted variety here, the team explains that red wines are more traditional. “Cannonau is Sardinia” says Vitaliano Tirrito, head of exports for Terra Moretti. Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva 2021 has a lovely mouth-filling juiciness, with soft tannins and some spice and balsamic notes.
In Tanca Farrà 2021 Pinna explains that the Cabernet Sauvignon brings structure, colour and tannins while Cannonau brings elegance. After a year in wood and concrete plus some bottle age, a savoury nose is complemented with hints of balsamic, dark fruit mingling with medicinal herbs.
A traditional agriturismo Sa Mandra where whole suckling pigs are roasted on an open fire.
Mustazzo 2021 comes from very old vineyards on granitic soils in the centre of Sardinia owned by Sella & Mosca.The high alcohol is well balanced with rich, ripe dark plummy fruit and spices, and a floral lift. Asked about food pairings for Mustazzo, the answer from the team is immediate and unanimous, and one we get to put to the test that evening at traditional agriturismo Sa Mandra where whole suckling pigs are roasted on an open fire. Mustazzo 2021 brings enough power, balanced with freshness, to prove a perfect pairing for the crispy, fatty pork.
The team's enthusiasm for Sardinian wine and culture is infectious, and under Terra Moretti's ownership, Sella & Mosca seems well positioned to bring greater attention to the island's combination of terroirs and indigenous varieties.
Sella & Mosca is imported by Hallgarten & Novum which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
