With such a vast array of soils, sites and climates, the new wave of "low" wines feels like a natural evolution for Pays d'Oc IGP, an area that includes around 110,000 hectares of vineyard. This scale and diversity gives growers options: cooler high-altitude sites, shaded valleys and an almost infinite number of site orientations — all of which help to temper Languedoc-Roussillon's warm climate. As drinkers increasingly look for wine that has flavour without being heavy, Pays d’Oc IGP is ideally placed to deliver.
And indeed the trend for low wines has become impossible for winemakers to ignore. In 2023, the no- and low-alcohol category accounted for around 17% of global wine consumption, according to International Wine and Spirits Research (IWSR), and is on track to grow from there by a further 12% to 2027.
The CEO of Vinexposium, also noted ahead of Wine Paris 2024 that demand for low wines is rising exponentially, particularly among health-conscious younger consumers – a trend that is borne out anecdotally among somms and wine merchants in France and beyond.
With such a vast array of soils, sites and climates, the new wave of "low" wines feels like a natural evolution for Pays d'Oc IGP
But Pays d'Oc's move towards low wines is more than just market whimsy. Producers like Pierrick Harang have been at the forefront of this movement for many years, insisting that his Petit Balthazar range is "naturally lower in alcohol," and crucially also lower in calories. Another prominent low range, Nectar & Nature, describes its wines as "lighter by nature", and this reflects Pays d'Oc IGP's self-imposed rule that these wines' low alcohol content must be arrived at by fermentation alone. Dealcoholisation is strictly forbidden.
For the winemakers who are leading the charge, making low wines that truly shine is a deft combination of science and art. Vineyard site is key, as is the selection of grape varieties that will show ripe, pleasant flavours before sugars climb too high. Fortunately, with a full 58 varieties to choose from, this is another key advantage enjoyed by Pays d'Oc's producers. Grapes are then pressed gently and fermented at moderate temperatures, often undergoing cold soaking beforehand. Blending riper grapes with those harvested earlier, as in Calmel & Joseph's Villa Blanche range, also helps keep abv down.
The result is wines that are genuinely surprising. They're pleasant to drink, with delicate flavours, plenty of personality and you can quaff more than a couple of glasses without regretting it the next morning! Predictably, most of the wines noted below are either white or pink in colour, as full phenolic ripeness in grapes' skins is less essential for these styles. But there are plenty of excellent low reds too, especially in the paler, more gently extracted style that I love to drink. Another pleasant surprise is that the wines tasted (unless otherwise stated) were overwhelmingly crisp and dry, making them excellent partners for a diverse culinary landscape.
The whites
"Le Petit Balthazar" Viognier – Sauvignon Blanc, Pierrick Harang Wine, 2024, 11%
A 50:50 blend of Viognier and Sauvignon, grown on clay limestone soils. Pale lemon in colour, with aromas of recent fermentation, gooseberry and citrus flower, complemented by stone fruits. Bracing acidity and Granny Smith apple flavours are rounded off by the richer Viognier, offering enough body to pair with grilled oysters or goat's cheese. RRP €6.50 at cellar door
Available from: UK importer – Merchant Vintners; Alexander Wines
"Lionel Boutié" Viognier, Domaine Ricardelle de Lautrec, 2024, 11.5% (biodynamic)
A wonderfully aromatic Viognier from the warm, pebble-strewn vineyards near Coursan, between Béziers and Narbonne. It has real texture and depth on the nose: layers of peach, apricot and white roses. The palate has a surprisingly oily feel, with peach flavours somewhat weighted towards the attack, and relatively low acidity. A great aperitif wine, or a partner for hors d'oeuvres. RRP €10.50 at cellar door
Available from: direct from the estate
"Scène no. 4" Sauvignon Blanc, Domaine Ricardelle de Lautrec, 2024, 12% (biodynamic)
The juice is super bright, pale straw with flashes of green. An initial mineral tightness on the nose marks the effect of the clay-limestone site, but this rapidly opens into real aromatic breadth, with kiwi and guava. Ample and generous in the mouth, with firm apply acidity and good length. A perfect foil for seafood platters or pan-fried scallops. RRP €10.50 at cellar door
Available from: UK importer – Superba Wines
"Scène no. 9" Chardonnay, Domaine Ricardelle de Lautrec, 2024, 12% (biodynamic)
Another selection from Ricardelle de Lautrec, this Chardonnay shows delicate stony aromas at first, before opening into honeysuckle, peach and hint of resin. Good acidity on the palate, tight but well-balanced. Flavours are poised and faintly tropical, with a persistent, slightly buttery finish. Try with grilled fish. RRP €10.50 at cellar door
Available from: UK importer – Superba Wines
"Alignan, c'est le blanc!", Les Vignerons d'Alignan du Vent, 2024, 10.5%
A remarkably good value wine, available in the much under-appreciated bag-in-box format. Almost clear in colour, with a greenish tint, Sauvignon Blanc and Colombard grapes were harvested early to preserve maximum freshness, giving a naturally light-bodied dry wine. The nose is grassy and citrus, with green melon and pear. The palate is cool and etherial, but shows surprising substance and fruit salad flavours with sufficient ripeness to pair with seafood salads. RRP €9.95 / 3-litre bib at cellar door
Available from: Les Vins Alexander Krossa
"Une Belle Histoire de la Jasse", Maison Le Breton, 2024, 11%
Varietal Rolle (Vermentino) is a niche curiosity in Pays d'Oc, here grown on limestone rich soils north of Montpellier. The result is a pale golden white, with intense aromas of pineapple, grapefruit and honey. The wine is delicately sparkling – in the perlé style – with a citrus attack, developing into fatter, savoury notes of Persimmon and caramel. Plenty of body makes this a good match for poultry in white sauce. RRP €10 at cellar door
Available from: direct from the estate
"Vignes du Levant" Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, Domaine Guilhem, 2024, 12% (organic)
East-facing vineyards are exposed to the rising sun at 280 metres altitude, in the far west of Pays d'Oc. Sauvignon Blanc (85% of the blend) is cold soaked before fermentation, while the 15% of Chardonnay is pressed directly; grapes are vinified separately before blending. Pale greenish lemon in colour, grassy citrus Sauvignon aromas dominate the nose initially, with floral hints then escaping. Citrus flavours give way to more rounded apple and peach, before the bracing acidity returns on the finish. Classic matches are asparagus and goat's cheese. RRP €12 at cellar door
Available from: UK importer – Wine 52
The rosés
"Belles du Sud rosé”, Cicéron, 2024, 10%
With its broad bell-shaped bottle and pale onion skin hue, this wine is aimed squarely at buyers of Provençal pink. Cinsault and Grenache grapes are harvested at night to preserve freshness. Clay-limestone soils give a wine with delicate floral, citrus and fresh strawberry aromas. There's a bit of spritz in the mouth, balanced acidity, crunchy red fruits mid-palate and decent length. A very complete wine, a pleasure to drink with razor clams cooked à la plancha with garlic and parsley. RRP €10 at cellar door
Available from: UK importer – On the Source; Key Wine Company
"Le Petit Balthazar" Cinsault Rosé, Pierrick Harang Wine, 2024, 11%
Bright salmon pink in colour, the nose is shy at first, developing redcurrants, strawberry and ripe apple aromas. On the palate, creamy strawberries dominate the attack, with a richness perhaps linked to a period of lees ageing. Redcurrants and vibrant acidity mid-palate, with a delicate, lingering finish. An alternative pairing for fruit-based desserts, like red fruit tarts or lemon meringue. RRP €6.50 at cellar door
Available from: UK importer – Merchant Vintners; Alexander Wines
"LYV" Rosé, Maison JeanJean, 2024, 12%
A precise blend of 40% Cinsault, 20% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Pinot Noir, grapes are grown in the cool, humid conditions of the Etang de Thau, on the shores of the Mediterranean, and at altitude in the clay-limestone hills near Limoux. Pale onion skin in colour, the nose shows juicy, candied red fruits, especially strawberries. Rounded and satisfying on the palate, there's a touch of residual sugar, suggesting pairings of richly-dressed salads and light Oriental dishes. RRP €7.20 at cellar door
Available from: direct from the estate
"Villa Blanche" Grenache Rosé, Calmel & Joseph, 2024, 12%
Grenache Noir and Grenache Gris grapes are harvested in two stages: the first to give tangy freshness; the second, a fortnight later, to add varietal aromas and rich flavours. Bright and copper-tinged in the glass, the nose is initially restrained, showing sweet melon and becoming progressively more exotic as it opens up. A hint of white pepper emerges with a swirl. It's generous in the mouth, with a ripeness that might give the impression of some sweetness in what is in fact a dry wine. Acidity is soft and favours are delicately exotic with a hint of spice. Drink with Thai curry. RRP €10 at cellar door
Available from: UK importer – Daniel Lambert
The reds
"Simple Comme Un Bon Rouge" Les Collines du Bourdic, 2024, 11.5%
An unconventional blend of Syrah, Nielluccio (Sangiovese) and Cinsault is enough in itself to provoke interest; with fun, unpretentious packaging that make it perfect for the hip on-trade. Pale ruby in colour, with a mix of raspberries and wild dark berry fruits on the nose. A supple but fleshy mouth-feel, ripe and frank with no edges. Acidity is fairly low but there's body here, boosted by decent fruit intensity. Chill down a bottle and fire up the barbecue! RRP €6.10 at cellar door
Available from: direct from the estate
"Le Petit Balthazar" Merlot, Pierrick Harang Wine, 2024, 11%
An ambitious low red, with a surprisingly deep olive-ruby tone – the result of pre-fermentation skin maceration. Typical of the variety when picked early, aromas are of blackcurrant leaf and green pepper, with a hint of tapenade to remind you you're in the south. Flavours are of dark fruits and crushed pepper, with relatively firm tannins, softened slightly by micro-oxygenation. Impressive body and a hint of spice makes it a useful partner for lamb tajine. RRP €6.50 at cellar door
Available from: UK importer – Merchant Vintners; Alexander Wines
"Nectar & Nature" Rouge, GCF Group, 2023, 10.5%
A bright ruby-coloured varietal Merlot, showing a variety of fresh fruit aromas, from the darker blackberry and cassis to cherry. On the palate, it is vibrant and moreish, with structured tannins that are rounded out by a little residual sugar (around 8 grammes per litre). Nice acidity and a little spice complete the mix. Drink with rare-cooked steak or hard cheeses like aged Comté. RRP €9 at cellar door
Available from: direct from the estate
"Le Saint Bau", Domaine de Sauzet, 2022, 11.5% (organic)
Grenache, Malbec and Cinsault grapes are picked from clay-limestone sites at an altitude of 200 metres, in the first foothills of the Cévennes. With a pale cherry colour, the wine has a floral yet earthy nose, showing delicate wild redcurrants and cherries. It has a juicy feel throughout the palate, with a rich glyceric texture, soft tannins and fruity persistence. The wine feels notably younger than its three years in bottle. Pair with a broad range of Chinese dishes. RRP €8.50 at cellar door
Available from: direct from the estate
Lead image @Lesinsensés
IGP Pays d’Oc is a commercial partner of The Buyer.
