Despite it being a typical grey February day in the Austrian city of Vienna, the warmth of the Tuscan sunshine could be felt with the launch of Ornellaia 2023. Two Michelin-starred Restaurant Konstantin Filippou had been selected by Ornellaia for a 30-year vertical tasting to highlight the evolution of its wines and to reveal its eagerly awaited 2023 vintage.
Marco Balsimelli, operations director of Ornellaia, was keen to showcase his latest work and reveal the estate’s 38th vintage. Crucially, for Marco, this was the first vintage conducted completely at his own hand, from selecting the plots to blend and bottle.
However, his maiden harvest was not without challenges due to the weather conditions in the Bolgheri region in 2023. The vintage was to prove the ideal vehicle to exhibit both his skill and vineyard management capabilities that were honed in Bordeaux at Laboratoire Boissenot and Gruaud Larose .
Ornellaia 2023: the weather
The inclement spring was followed by a perfectly hot summer
After a mild winter, spring brought abundant rainfall, which filled water reserves for summer. Whilst this was a positive factor for the vines, it also created additional work in the vineyard, managing the canopy and counteracting mildew expediently. Rainfall has been historically good in the region, but there is now a multi-year trend for a change in its distribution. Prior to the last few years, it has occurred post-harvest and during the winter.
The inclement spring was followed by a warm summer, with a very fresh August allowing slow maturation. Despite this, in 2023, the usual average temperature in the region increased 1-1.5°C. September itself was, in Balsimelli’s opinion, “perfect”. There was no rainfall, and this provided the perfect conditions for harvesting all plots at the best time possible with optimum maturity in all varieties. On balance, Balsimelli feels these climatic changes and resulting interventions are, on the whole, complimentary and positive.
Microclimate and terroir
The estate does, however, benefit from an unique microclimate and has sand and marl, clay and limestone soils. This diversity of terroir also allows the French grape varieties to be utilised in the best way. Although this was not the case some 45 years ago when Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc were planted across all Ornellaia’s plots rather than, as now, the vines being located precisely and regarding planting density to better exploit their individual strengths.
Ornellaia 2023: the harvest
Ornellaia 2023 has been dubbed ‘La Vitalità’, meaning ‘vitality’, as the vintage was particularly full of vigour and life
Merlot picking commenced in the last week of August and Cabernet Franc in the first week of September. Cabernet Sauvignon started picking on 10th September; whilst this seems early, it shows consistency with the last few years. Some plots were finished harvesting in October due to their unique aspects.
Grape selection was first in the vineyard, then double table sorted by hand to remove stalks and then by optical selection with three cameras. Automatic selection was made for shape of the berry, the intensity of colour and the content of chlorophyll. The latter is important for the maturity prospects of the resulting wines to be blended.
At the core of Balsimelli’s approach is a cool fermentation of 25-28°C. The colour and tannin extraction occur predominantly during the first part of the process. A short maceration of 20-28 days is undertaken dependent on plot and grape variety. The wines are then transferred directly to barrels for malolactic fermentation, and there is also some work directly with press wines too.
The resulting blend for Ornellaia 2023 is classic, with Cabernet Sauvignon leading the way at 55%. The other components are 26% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot.
Ornellaia 2023: the tasting
On the nose, it is all about ripe fruit, complexity of spice and a hint of barrel toasting. In the mouth, it is juicy, fresh, dynamic with acidity and even a tiny hint of acacia honey. Balsimelli comments “that the density is disarmed by its elegance and balance.” This has given a long, persistent finish that is ultra silky in its tannin play. The result is a wine with the capacity to drink now and young, as well as having the capacity to age. Balsimelli sees this dual consumer approach as brave and linked to Ornellaia’s present character. He describes 2023 as “the perfect vintage, beautiful to drink now.” I feel it makes the ideal gateway vintage for those yet to appreciate and explore the Bolgheri region and its open generosity, provided by the age of the vines.
Ornellaia’s tradition of selecting a single word to represent its vintages was continued with the working title for 2023 of ‘La Vitalità’, meaning ‘vitality’, as the vintage was particularly full of vigour and life, this offering also hints further at the direction the vineyard will go in the future.
Marco Balsimelli and Lumberto Frescobaldi (l-r)
Typically upbeat and glowing, president of Ornellaia, Lumberto Frescobaldi, was on hand to add his unique historical view of the wine, appellation, and the subtle changes started with the 2013 vintage. Often consulted by the Italian Minister of Agriculture on winemaking, he is one to set his stall out clearly.
“Our aim is to invest in the quality of our wine and the quality of our people. Ornellaia is a source of Italian pride, and its excellence is a great responsibility, not only for the Bolgheri region but for all of Italy’s wine industry.”
He noted that at the end of the the 1950s that 85% of the Italian population was involved in agriculture; that figure stands at 2.2% now. He does see a positive upside to this, saying that as a result, we are now “drinking better.”
The historic goal has been to look for the greatest quality, so the yield has been kept small, but not in an extreme way. Frescobaldi sees this as self-regulating to a degree, citing Sangiovese in the region preferring the schist whilst the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes appreciate the sandy soils, and cope with the late rainfall well. The temperature in the Bolgheri region is slightly warmer than the rest of Tuscany. This fully matures the Cabernet Sauvignon and enables it to lose the characteristic greenness often displayed elsewhere. This greenness Frescobaldi cedes could be reassuring to the consumer, but without apology he describes it as “dull.” Balsimelli adds it is also crucial that the Cabernet Franc is picked at the right time, or it too will add uncomplimentary vegetal notes alongside this ‘greenness’.
Ornellaia 2023: how Konstantin Fillipou paired it in Vienna
Selecting Konstantin Fillipou to host the occasion did not happen by chance. With a great track record and flexible approach, he was responsible for the food renaissance in Vienna. By bringing his Mediterranean influences and ingredients to the city’s traditional cuisine, he has made it more accessible and relevant to today's palates. He had matched two of his favourite ingredients to two Ornellaia vintages. A champion of Mangalitsa pork, his Duroc Pork Belly accompanied the Ornellaia 2023 with ease. The wine cutting through the layer of fat and proving, despite its youth, that it was not only ready to drink but also to pair with food. A magnum of 2013 ‘L’Eleganza’’showed its title was correct and well-earned as it parried with chef’s stuffed quail with truffle and vine leaf.
Sauvignon surprise
Alongside Konstantin’s signature Red Prawns, there was a surprise preview of Ornellaia Bianco 2023. First made in 2013, the latest release of the Sauvignon Blanc is from two to three plots of the 13 hectares of white varieties grown on the estate. These plots are at an elevation of 100 metres with deep soils, having lots of small stones and a large quantity of limestone. This terroir gives the resulting rich white wine a real freshness, salinity and minerality. The most notable thing about this wine is the structure, which is so often lacking in many Sauvignon Blancs. This is achieved by pressing and then by only using 25-35% new French oak for fermentation, the remainder being in older barrels. Battonage is initially daily, then once per week and then once every two weeks. Bottling off the 2023 vintage occurred after ten months and is now ready for release after a further 18 months ageing.
Ornellaia 30-year vertical
An impressive 30-year vertical had been selected to illustrate key synergies between the wines and illustrate the natural progression to the 2023 vintage.
Ornellaia 2016 ‘La Tensione’
One of Balsimelli’s favourite vintages, as it is both fresh and wholly classic. A cool year with an excess of nothing and great balance. Harmonious, expressive and complex with Merlot shining at the mid palate. Violets and spices prevail. Supidity and minerality specific to Ornellaia in a year of this type. Salty on the finish. This wine has opened up considerably in the last 12 months, and Balsimelli believes it has now reached its point of stability in mouth feel and acidity.
Ornellaia 2013 L’Elegenza
Another fresh vintage. A cold, rainy spring meant this was a late vintage. This, in turn, resulted in a loss during flowering, leading to a lower yield than usual. The rest of the year was more typical, with a great summer. Very concentrated with a fine density due to the structure and tannins from the reduced yield. Serves as a showcase of what Ornellaia can achieve with these growing conditions. The blend is uncharacteristically 45% Cabernet Sauvignon with additional Merlot. Fruit forward with a lot of volume and tension and long soft tannins. Less approachable at present than in 2016 and a little greener too, with more simplicity.
Ornellaia 2009 L’Equilibrio
A warm vintage with peaks of heat during August. The scirocco winds brought warm night temperatures too, unusually in Bolgheri, which is normally cool at night. The ripe side of the vintage is evident on the nose with fig, ripe fruit, and a voluminous mouth feel with a comparatively short finish. There is an additional spiciness from an enhanced quantity of Cabernet Franc in the blend this year. Frescobaldi describes this as a wine “to be drunk now” under his personal Carpe Diem theory.
Ornellaia 2004
A wholly classical vintage reminiscent of Bordeaux. This was achieved in a cool year with Cabernet Sauvignon evident on the nose. The mouth feel is linear and has a feeling of youth about it, despite its age. It is representative of the decade being ‘chunky’ due to skin extraction and requiring the drinker to almost ‘bite’this powerful wine. Only very light filtration was used on this vintage, adding to its texture.
Ornellaia 1993
Designated as a Vinola Tavola, the Bolgheri DOC was not yet in place for Super Tuscans. The spring was abnormally hot with early flowering. During the summer months, the temperatures were high, and the weather was stable. The grapes harvested were in excellent condition for optimal maturity. A classical vintage for the time, with 78% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The nose has balsamic and leather notes typical of wines of the Bolgheri region. Freshness remains with silky, long tannins showing the capability of the wines to age.
Ornellaia 2023: the future
Ornellaia’s 2023 release has further highlighted the continuation of the estate’s commitment to make fresher, more elegant wines.
Looking to the future, Balsimelli predicts a rising level of Cabernet Sauvignon, working with Marchesi Lumberto in Ornellaia’s blends to maybe 60% or more. Although he still stresses the vintage will always drive any blending requirements. With the climactic change in rainfall timing and volume, he feels the grape can thrive in all conditions and still has much to give in Bolgheri.
The final words around the estate's evolution, however, rest with Marchesi Lumberto Frescobaldi himself:
“To always be traditional is something very risky. When you fall in love with tradition, you stop searching. When you start to be in your comfort zone, you start to relax, and somebody is going to run faster than you. So, that’s the reason why we are always looking for something.”
Avanti Ornellaia, I say.
