Located in the foothills of the Alps, Piemonte is home to a spectacular range of appellations and grape varieties which play a key role in the Liberty Wines portfolio. Best known for the excellent Nebbiolo of Barolo and Barbaresco, the producers cover a wide scope of the region’s denominations and grape varieties. Liberty is continuing to expand and diversify its portfolio, adding in two promising new producers this year.
The 2021 Barolo vintage was particularly long and excellent, producing some outstanding wines. This was due to steady temperatures in spring and summer, with some rain in July resulting in milder temperatures, which allowed the grapes to spend more time on the vines so that they could develop more enhanced aromatics.
The 2022 Barbaresco vintage was challenging, but produced wines that are fresh and pure, harvested early with low yields and more concentrated fruit.
G. D. Vajra has been part of the Liberty Wines portfolio since day 1 and produces a range of outstanding Barolos. Giuseppe Vaira explained how the wines are expressions of the identity of the place and of the vintage with fruit-forward wines which spend a long time on the skins. I tasted three 2021 Barolos, in order of increasing vineyard elevation. The Coste di Rose had high acidity, bright fruit and grippy tannins. The Ravera was bold and reductive on the nose, fruitier and more approachable on the palate. This had higher levels of tannin than the previous wine due to the iron soils. The Bricco delle Viole, historically the highest vineyard in Barolo, receives perfect conditions from sunlight and a wide diurnal range. This creates a wine with complex aromatics and a palate of dark fruits with minerality balanced by elegant, delicate tannins.
"We’ve really partner Sophie Vaira to thank for this particular vintage, who, after one of the children tested positive for Covid, spent 20 days self-isolating with all the children in their house so that Giuseppe could camp out in the vineyards and produce these spectacular wines."
Alessandro Conterno of Poderi Aldo Conterno has a particularly poetic way in which he described his outstanding selection of Barolos. His 2020 Barolo Cicala was emblematic of strength, power, intensity and austerity on the palate due to the iron soils. In contrast, the 2020 Barolo Colonello was elegant, velvet, fruit-forward, bright and had aromatic complexity of basil, rosemary and thyme. He described the 2020 Barolo Romirasco as ‘Pegasus’, with the body of the horse signifying strength and power of the Cicala and the wings providing the elegance of the Colonello. The 2015 Barolo Granbussia was the highlight, with an amazingly powerful and complex nose of forest floor, mushroom and wet leaves with a soft and savoury palate.
Bruno Rocca’s selection of 2022 Barbaresco offers a zingy sour cherry nature, however its Marcorino provided a softer fruitiness on the palate. The highlight from its range was the 2019 Barbaresco Maria Adelaide, which was lovely, elegant with soft tannins alongside a bright black fruitiness, flowers and spice. It is crafted from a selection of the best grapes in the vineyards and spends 14-16 months maturing in large barrels.
Aside from the famed Barolo and Barbaresco, Piemonte is home to a many lesser known but excellent grape varieties. Vigne Marina Coppi’s Grand Fosto Timorasso particularly stood out, made in a Burgundian style, fermented in oak leaving smoky aromatics and spending three years in the bottle. Francesco Bellocchio, who acts as both winemaker and distributor, explains the bold characteristic of the Timorasso grape which does not get too dulled by oak or barrels.
New to Liberty Wines Piemonte portfolio is Mura Mura of Barbaresco, two friends whose skills acquired from their experience farming and marketing for a gelateria has made them very successful winemakers. Their potential particularly shines through the two Barbarescos from famous vineyards, the standout being their most iconic Roncaglie with complex and rich red fruits, plum and balsamic.
La Prevostura has also joined the collection this year, acquired by Luca de Marchi of Proprieta Sperino, with two wines from lesser-known estates. Their 2021 Muntacc Nebbiolo is elegant and accessible with lighter body, cranberry, spice and grippy tannins. The 2019 Lessona has a fuller body and a deeper colour and is more open and expressive on the nose.
The portfolio is looking very impressive indeed – a wide range of wines and some particularly delicious ones at a range of price points.
