Some tastings are about quiet contemplation. This one was about big wines (for the most part), lots of conversation, and an elite burger.
Hosted by Chuck Cramer, aka Mr California, at Smith & Wollensky (‘America’s Steakhouse’), this was a classic Californian masterclass done right, paired with bold (but elegant) wines poured generously alongside one of the best burgers I have had in a very long time.
The Terlato tasting was a good opportunity to see what The Federalist, Rutherford Hills and HANNA can offer premium wine buyers
Smith & Wollensky in London was the ideal venue for the Terlato tasting
This tasting was a chance to do a deep dive on three brands: The Federalist, Rutherford Hill and HANNA with vineyards between them spanning from Lodi and the Central Coast AVAs, Russian River Valley and of course, Napa Valley. All three producers sit within the Terlato Wine Group stable, a multi-generational, family-owned wine business and a very influential presence in the US wine scene, with brand and distribution rights to several core drinks producers from Italy, France, Spain and Argentina.
Each of the three producers we tasted through tells a different story of California: different regions, different philosophies, but with the same underlying confidence.
Not only did this tasting provide a brilliant outline of what Cramer and the Terlatos are up to on the West Coast, but it also served as a very useful comparative lens in which to benchmark the differences between each of the regions on a broader scale.
As many will only be too aware, Californian wine is the engine room of US wine across the board, accounting for at least 80% of production and demanding an even higher piece of the export pie. The region flirts with wines at both ends of the value spectrum, from some of the world’s most sought-after cuvées to more volume-driven, commercial styles.
The Federalist
Chuck Cramer has been responsible for getting The Federalist wines listed in a wide range of top premium dining venues in London and across the UK
The tasting started with the unmistakably labelled Federalist range. With a production volume in the region of six million bottles across the brand, these are the most abundant in the Terlato Californian portfolio.
Corey Garner is the head winemaker, bringing over 15 years of winemaking credentials from Napa Valley.
Cramer says that these are “fruit-forward, easy drinking everyday wines.” The range boasts a Chardonnay, Lodi AVA and Pinot Noir, Central Coast AVA, as well as two Cabernet Sauvignons and a cracking Zinfandel with fruit sourced from Lodi – specifically Borden Ranch (see below).
The Federalist Pinot Noir 2023, Central Coast
£15.58 DPD / 14.5% abv
Plush and unapologetically fruit-forward. Fermented in stainless steel and finished in French barrels for eight months (5% new wood). On the nose, red and blackberries crossover into jammy territory – but it’s welcome, with a strong red spice, anise character. Warm days, breezy afternoons and even cooler nights in this single vineyard lend a crunch to the acidity on the finish here. A great BTG offer.
The Federalist ‘1776’ Zinfandel 2023, Lodi
£15.58 DPD / 14.5% abv
The Zinfandel and Cabernet grapes for the Federalist are sourced from the Borden Ranch AVA, which sits within the Lodi. It’s largely flat, with warm days balanced out by strong winds and provides excellent drainage (not that it has been needed in recent years in California). This Zin is made from 62-year-old bush vines and ages for one year in American (40%) and French (60%) oak. It’s brilliant. Classic Zinfandel black and blue fruit, showing cassis notes. This is bright and energetic with a boxy structure and good concentration of flavour.
A creamy, buttered popcorn-style Chardonnay and two Cabernet Sauvignons complete the range, one aged in bourbon barrels, providing something new and intriguing (for me, at least).
All the wines were paired with one of the best burgers Harry Crowther has ever had
HANNA
Next, we move to a Russian River Valley pair from HANNA winery; a 140-hectare estate headed up by winemaker Jeff Hinchliffe, who cut his teeth in beer brewing before joining HANNA in 1998. Russian River is a premium cool-climate expression of largely Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and leans into wines of elegance and high quality.
The range is small and predictably focuses on Burgundian varieties; both tasted with a bit of age on them now, with the Chardonnay showing beautifully.
HANNA Chardonnay 2022, Russian River Valley
£22.75 DPD / 14% abv
Made with fruit sourced from two vineyards, this is aged for six months in 20% new 225 l barrels – a mix of French and European wood. It’s showing an attractive, struck-match reductive quality reminiscent of Western Australia. This is lean, with a lot of candied lemon and lime character. Electric acidity.
Rutherford Hill
No Californian masterclass and tasting would be complete without a flight of Napa Valley wine. Enter Rutherford Hill; founded in 1972, the winery celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2022 and proudly, was one of the first wineries in Napa to bottle Merlot – in fact, Merlot still accounts for around 75% of their production.
Stephanie Jacobs has recently joined from Cakebread Cellars (where she earned 100-points from Wine Spectator for their ‘Dancing Bear Ranch Cabernet’) as the new winemaker.
Rutherford Hill is committed to sustainable farming practices, working with entirely Napa Valley fruit, 100% of which is estate-grown.
Rutherford Hill ‘AJT’ Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Napa Valley
£24.97 DPD / 14% abv
Sauvignon Blanc blends with 13% Sauvignon Gris, and Rutherford Hill was the first to plant the latter in California. Grapes are hand-picked and whole bunch pressed. The juice is fermented in a combination of oak and stainless steel, and the wine is aged in the same manner. The use of oak is clear up top in the glass, displaying intense notes of pineapple (as I often find with barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc) and tropical character. The palate is textural and rich, benefiting from a weighty Sauvignon Gris. An accomplished nod to a white Bordeaux.
Rutherford Hill ‘AJT’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Napa Valley
£41.70 DPD / 14.7% abv
95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot.
From the estate’s Rutherford AVA, AJT vineyard, 53 acres of rock soil and steep south-west facing slopes. Bang-on Rutherford style and a very appealing price point. Deep, layered and rich with dark brooding fruit from top to bottom and a suggestion of leafy Cabernet-ness and graphite character.
Rutherford Hill Merlot 2021, Napa Valley
£28.86 DPD / 14.3% abv
Rutherford’s Merlot comes with a host of accolades. The fermenting juice spends 21 days on the skins with regular remontage. The pressed wine heads into (30% new) French oak to age for 14 months in the famous caves of the estate. Juicy and plump, but not without tension and attractive notes of clove and spice, finishing with a hint of espresso. The estate’s flagship wine! 3% Cabernet Franc.
From the estate’s Rutherford AVA, AJT vineyard, 53 acres of rock soil and steep south-west facing slopes. Bang-on Rutherford style and a very appealing price point. Deep, layered and rich with dark brooding fruit from top to bottom and a suggestion of leafy Cabernet-ness and graphite character.
* All the wines are available from Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies.
