“At a time of mooted Champagne shortages and ever-increasing prices, these often long-aged sparkling Vouvrays represent fantastic value for money,” writes Krebiehl.
Gastronomic appeal: sparkling Vouvray comes in a wide variety of styles
Ah, the endless world of traditional method fizz: there is so much new, so much exciting stuff, that amidst all the bubbles, we sometimes forget some real classics. No, not the big C-word – I am talking about sparkling Vouvray.
It is now some years ago that I had my first ever taste: at Domaine du Clos Naudin run by the Foreau family. Even then when my palate was a lot more innocent, I knew I was onto something special. So when I heard a Vouvray was on show in London, I hotfooted it to the tasting.
Sparkling Vouvray facts
Vouvray Mousseux is made from 100% Chenin Blanc grown in seven communes on the north bank of the Loire and its tributaries Brenne and Cisse – a total of 2,250 hectares. While the Vouvray appellation encompasses both still and sparkling wines in dry, off-dry and sweet styles, production is split between 60% sparkling and 40% still wines – even though older records speak of a 70/30 split in favour of sparkling.
Just like in Saumur, the presence of cellars dug into the Cretaceous tuffeau, a soft limestone rock, pre-destined Vouvray for sparkling wine production. This took off in the second half of the 19thcentury as winemakers across Europe began to understand and master bottle fermentation.
Playing with sweetness
Vouvray’s hallmark is of course Chenin Blanc – and this means aromas of apple and honey, sometimes hay, predominate in its sparkling wines. Its high acidity means it can play with styles – always having a counterweight to any sweetness there may be. Dosages at the tasting ranged from zero to demi-sec, the latter being beautifully suited to the semi-aromatic nature of Chenin Blanc. There were both vintage and non-vintages styles at the tasting, some with considerable time on lees.
Caveat emptor
Regulations are not stringent: while they prescribe bottle fermentation, a minimum pressure of 3.5 bars and a minimum of 12 months ageing on lees, the quality of the wines is rather variable – and this was evident at the tasting, too. Some wines, however, shone. I was particularly struck by their gastronomic appeal and – at a time of mooted Champagne shortages and ever-increasing prices, these often long-aged wines represent fantastic value for money.
Eight sparkling Vouvray that shone at the tasting
Domaine Sylvain Gaudron Blanc de Chenin Vouvray brut NV 12.5% ABV 8g/l dosage
A very pure aroma of fresh Cox Orange Pippin and freshly pressed apple juice is most appetising on the vivid nose. The palate is much lighter than the nose suggests, briskly dry, very fresh but so full of apple flavour. Great purity and great refreshment – and a most appealing style that brims with fruit and freshness. Wonderful.
Domaine Sylvain Gaudron La Symphonie Vouvray Zéro Dosage 2018 Dégorgement Tardif 12% ABV
A most subtle nose gives little away apart from lemon. A vivid mousse transports notes of fresh hay and confit lemon. The very slender body has incisive freshness and a wonderfully brisk sparkle. There is the slightest hint of apricot kernel bitterness on the finish, mouth-watering and appetising at the same time, making this a great wine for the table.
Domaine du Mouton Noir Vouvray Brut NV 12.5% ABV dosage 7g/l
Subtle smoke and hints of dried chamomile make for an unusual nose. With more air, notes of candied lemon, apple and hay appear. The palate is light-bodied and has a fine, gentle mousse that underlines the lovely apple and lemon notes. Fine freshness makes this brisk and appetising, a perfect aperitif style.
Mouton Noir Vouvray Demi-Sec NV 12.5% dosage 30g/l
Only subtle hints of fruit appear on the nose, but in a rather seductive fashion. Both apple and candied lemon can be glimpsed. The palate comes in with freshness and ripe, rounded apple fruit – the sweetness is that of a ripe, juicy apple. The generous 30g demi-sec dosage just seems to disappear, leaving lasting apple fruit tinged with lemon and citrus pith. This calls out for food.
Domaine Paris Père & Fils Vouvray Extra Brut Réserve 2014 13% ABV dosage 3 g/l
With eight years of lees ageing and a very low dosage, this is a standout. Slightly honeyed notes of apricot spell evolution. The palate comes in with bright freshness and lovely dryness on a slender, elegant palate. All is subtle and the expression is one of depth rather than fruit. The finish is wonderfully clean and lasting with those echoes of apricot, stone fruit and lemon.
Vignoble Brisebarre Vouvray brut NV 12.5% dosage 8g/l
An incredibly fresh and pure note of Golden Delicious apple shines on the nose. The palate adds hints of hay, stone, earth and freshly cut Golden Delicious peel to this. A textural element adds more seriousness to the fruit while foamy bubbles transport freshness. The finish is lasting and dry.
Vignoble Brisebarre Cuvée Millésimée 2016 Vouvray brut 12.5% dosage 6g/l
An intense nose carries ozone, caramelised apple and notes of rye crumb. The dry palate spells refined freshness with its very dry mid-palate. Notes of wet stone and bright apple make the mouth water while fine bubbles burst. This is elegant and svelte, serious and long. Exquisite.
Domaine Damien Pinon Vouvray Le Brut NV 13% ABV dosage 9 g/l
This is in fact from a single vintage, namely 2019, but not stated on the label. The nose holds appealing notes of both red and yellow apples along with tender lemon and white spring blossom. The palate is fresh, lively, fruity and fizzing with apple-scented refreshment. A really beautiful apero style with a dry and lasting finish.
