Twelve of the best new Fitou wines tried and tasted
The AOC of Fitou was in town this week to hold its inaugural trade tasting. Sandwiched between all manner of events, the Fitou tasting consisted of twelve wines hand-picked by various sommeliers and oenologists from the South of France, and presented by Baptiste Ross-Bonneau who serves as the head wine steward and chief sommelier of Michelin-starred restaurant Barbacane in Carcassonne’s Hôtel de la Cité. You know, the only place in the city that doesn’t sell cassoulet.
The tasting was held at London’s 68 & Boston
Although it is the oldest appellation in the Languedoc Roussillon, having been formed in 1948, Fitou has been hiding under the radar for some years, over-shadowed by the like of neighbouring ‘upstart’ AOCs like Terrasses du Larzac, that have been filling the column inches of the wine press, and seemingly untouched by the new investment coming into the region from the New World. At the end of the day there are only 35 private wineries here and a few cooperatives.
Despite documents dating back to the Fourteenth Century and Rabelais waxing lyrical about them, the wines of Fitou have recently had a reputation of being alcohol-heavy fruit bombs that demand charcuterie and an afternoon nap. But in the past decade they have developed their style to be lighter, more approachable, with softer, velvety tannins.
Know your Languedoc AOCs
The AOC demands that they have to have Carignan in the mix and the blends then use to more or lesser extent Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. Carignan brings structure, full body, rich deep colours and Grenache rounds off the rough edges making the wines finer, more smooth and mellow.
The wines on show were, on the whole, worthy of note. Drunk young as they are supposed to be they are tannic and have resinous qualities and are best served with cold meats, but two or more years down the line they do start developing secondary characteristics that bring the wines a more refined quality and give enhanced pairing possibilities.
So enough of the gassing Deano, what were the wines like?
So, below are my tasting notes of the 12 wines with the top five singled out as ones to look out for.
Château de Nouvelles, Gabrielle 2013
This was my wine of the tasting. Dark cherry red, quite a subtle nose of mulberry and spice, lush mouthfeel, and notes of fresh dark fruit, pronounced but well integrated tannin with quite some length. This is a well balanced wine that could be served with or without food, and at cellar temperature to allow focus on the fruit and not allow the tannin to dominate. 60% Carignan, 30% Grenache Noir and 10% Syrah.
Domaine Esclarmonde, L’Impulsif 2014
Light ruby in colour with lifted aromatics of garrigue herbs, dark fruit, spice; a light mouthfeel, nice and balanced, reasonable length, well-integrated tannin, a very approachable wine with or without food. Overall much lighter in style. Baptiste Ross-Bonneau recommends this with foie gras that has a vein of raspberry jelly, with the Carignan combatting the fat and highlighting the fruit notes.
Domaine Bertrand-Bergé, La Bouliere 2013
Baptiste Ross-Bonneau would recommend pairing this wine with autumnal flavours – veal sweetbreads with wild mushrooms and truffle, for example, or cassoulet (albeit not from his restaurant!). This has Mourvedre turned up in the mix (to 50%) and the rest 50/50 Grenache and Carignan. It is a medium red, fresh wine with red fruit, mocha and herbs on the nose, a generous mouthfeel, nice texture and well integrated tannins. Overall this is a modern medium bodied style of Fitou, quite a lean acidity that holds it together, but still packs a punch with the ABV.
Les Vignerons du Mont-Touch, Hommage 2013
Deep red, much more power and a lot more heat on the nose, black fruit, a hint of tapenade, roasted meat, more forceful tannin, fresh fruit, balanced, quite restrained after what the nose promises. Nice.
Château des Erles 2013
Medium red, light fresh appealing nose, floral and red fruit, nice balance, more rounded fruit and mouthfeel, slight spice (Syrah turned up in the mix). Well integrated tannin. Nice wine with or without food.
And the best of the rest …..
Château Abelanet, Vieilles Vignes 2013
Ruby, quite a dumb elegant nose, quite generous mouthfeel, full flavours, rich black fruits, good depth and nice texture. Pronounced tannin and more powerful alcohol. Needs some food for best enjoyment.
Domaine Lerys, Adrienne 2014
Medium red, instantly more appealing floral nose, with a hint of Jammy Dodger, rich fruit on the palate, much sweeter with a slight confectionery note in the background. Nicely structured and needs food.
Château Les Fenals, Cuvé Julie 2014
Light ruby, almost Gamay-like in colour, light on the nose, immediately richer and sweeter on the front palate, evident woody tannins but quite approachable, although a bit drying on the finish. Pleasant enough.
Château Champ des Soeurs, Bel Amant 2013
Ruby in colour, bestial and wild black fruit on the nose, full mouthfeel, rustic tannins, quite a dry, insipid finish. Not that special.
Domaine de la Rochellerre, Noblesse du Temps 2014
Dark cherry, much more lifted aromatics, really attractive slightly wild nose, wild flowers, Mourvedre turned up in the mix, nice mouthfeel, fresh tannins to the fore and quite dry tannin on the finish.
Domaine de la Grange, Via Fonteius 2013
Purple edge, sweeter fruit on the nose, something a little unappealing here, good mouthfeel and nice fruit, slightly sour tannins that are very pronounced on the finish. Approachable enough but best avoided without sinew.
Château Wiala, Harmonie 2013
Medium red, attractive nose of red fruit, rounded rich fruit mouthfeel, with tannins that really dominate in the finish, very drying. Not so hot.
The Fitou region is known for its proximity to the sea, and shale and calcareous soils
