“Boekenhoutskloof 2021 with its spring-like conditions during harvest, turned out to be a remarkable vintage,” says Gottfried Mocke, Boekenhoutskloof’s head winemaker.
Marc Kent presenting the new Boekenhoutskloof 2021 wines, Spring, London, February 6, 2024
In the depths of a dreary winter in central London things were decidedly ‘springy’ at Spring Restaurant, Somerset House. Marc Kent, polished and relaxed walks into the sun-drenched orangery and comments: “So much light in here.” Great words for the mood of the room and, of course, showcasing his wines of the Boekenhoutskloof 2021 vintage.
Greeting guests Kent, managing partner and technical director of the Boekenhoutskloof wine stable was charm personified. Later this year he will be celebrating thirty years there recalling arriving in Franschhoek “…with just a fridge and a HiFi in the back of the car”. Three decades on and they sell seven million bottles to over 60 countries worldwide.
“We’ve never won an award, we’ve never entered any shows or competitions, we’ve relied solely on good third-party endorsements, journalists and people like you,” says Kent as he warms up his audience.
“We are never going to get rich in this business, but we have a hell of a lot of fun staying poor.”
A natural raconteur Kent goes onto offer his insights: “2021 was a really great Cape vintage along with 2015 and 2017 as one of the great modern vintages.” This was believed to have been the case for the Cape across the board in 2021.
By his own admission this is the vintage Kent probably had least to do with as he was stranded in Portugal during Covid, where he spends most of his time now making wines in Casais de Douro near Pinhão under the Invincible label with Rita Marques. Gottfried Mocke, Boekenhoutskloof head winemaker since 2015, was largely responsible for the wines showcased.
Mocke has said of the vintage “2021 with its spring-like conditions during harvest, turned out to be a remarkable vintage. Wines that exhibit new world power and old-world finesse.” The cool conditions during harvest enabled picking to be undertaken at an ideal ripeness.
Tasting the four wines from Boekenhoutskloof 2021 vintage
Boekenhoutskloof 2021 was graced with spring-like conditions during harvest
Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2021
World class Semillon grapes from three distinct blocks in Franschhoek planted in 1902, 1936 and 1942 respectively were combined with 3% Muscat d’Alexandrie. Whole bunch pressed and fermented spontaneously in 225-litre barriques and concrete eggs. This wine was a bright, medium lemon in the glass, viscous, with a shy nose that required a little patience opening up.
With 70 % of the wine aged in new French oak and 30% in concrete eggs, this oxidative approach Kent feels enhances the textural palate. Overall, the wine demonstrated a refreshing acidity with aromas and flavours of poached pear, quince and lemon peel. The oak is subtle, adds to the complexity of the wine. It’s the acidity though that persists on the finish, arguably more so than the previous 2020 vintage. Understated and elegant this wine needs more time to develop. 13.57% ABV, TA 5.2 g/l, pH 3.26, RS 1.5 g/l
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2021
Picked from select parcels in the Swartland farms of Porseleinberg (90%) and Goldmine (10%). The grapes were hand harvested, transported to Boekenhoutskloof for vinification in concrete tanks, then spontaneously fermented with minimal added sulphur. Housed in Austrian oak foudres and 600-litre oak barrels for a further 18 months.
Inky, intense purple hues and a pronounced nose of lavender, violet and black fruits dominate. A herbal backdrop added complexity perhaps to be expected from a wine from Porseleinberg. Perfumed on the palate this wine was both sumptuous and elegant. Black pepper, silky tannins with a persistent finish of roasted meats and blackberries. With many years yet to develop this wine was impressive even in its youth. 13.75% ABV, TA 4.8 g/l, pH 3.81, RS 2.3 g/l
Boekenhoutskloof Franschhoek Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
Grown from two vineyards adjacent to each other the wine is composed of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with less that 15 percent Cabernet Franc. Despite the excellent growing conditions, this is a vintage with small berries and diminished yields. Gently vinified to minimise over extraction, grapes were hand-picked and sorted, de-stemmed and cold macerated in concrete… spontaneous fermentation followed.
A deep, pigeon blood red wine with a gentle nose of blackcurrant, graphite and dried herbs. Delicate notes of violet followed by a black-fruited palate with liquorice and silky tannins. The wine proved intense and powerful with a long elegant finish. A remarkable wine with over a decade of ageing ahead, lots of potential. 14.97% ABV, TA 5.7 g/l, pH 3.66, RS 2.8 g/l
Boekenhoutskloof Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
Crafted from selected parcels in Stellenbosch the vineyards reside on slopes of the Helderberg mountain and Vlottenberg. Hand harvested and destemmed in Franschhoek the grapes were crushed into concrete. Spontaneous fermentation followed in 225-litre barrels and aged for 22 months in new, light-toasted oak.
A denser wine compared to its Franschhoek sister Cab Sav this wine was more Medoc in style but more approachable in its youth. Bright ruby with graphite notes, menthol, black plum and blackcurrant leaves prevail. The high levels of granular tannins give way to a spicy finish intense and long. 14.87% ABV, TA 5.7 g/l, pH 3.73, RS 2.5 g/l
Tasting some older vintages…
The tasting of the Boekenhoutskloof 2021 vintage range was followed by a tasting of three pairs of library wines and one dessert wine.
A carpaccio of mackerel and tomatoes was served alongside two Semillon wines: 2001 and 2011.
Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2001
The 2001 Franschhoek Semillon made with 92% Semillon from their 60 and 100-year-old vines and 8% Sauvignon Blanc. Deep gold in colour, this wine was full bodied with a nose reminiscent of dried apples and pine nuts. Honeyed notes gave way to a little ginger in syrup spice and waxy lanolin. Showing its age a little but holding well.
Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2011
The 2011 Semillon was a little lower in Sauvignon Blanc at 5% of the blend. Golden in hue but packed with floral notes it was the acidity that shouted elegantly from the glass. Lemon zest, peach and nectarine. Overall, this wine demonstrated a freshness that belies its years.
Four library red wines were served with a fillet of beef and chilli jam. Syrah 2001, 2011 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 and 2011.
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2001
The fifth vintage from the Wellington vineyard, this wine was deep garnet in colour with a powerful nose of botanicals and savoury spice. A robust wine with a savoury palate and liquorice, a long-lasting finish.
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2011
The shiny garnet hues of this 13-year-old wine showed well in the glass and on the palate. Dried sour cherry gave way to dark spicy notes and a lingering acidity and a refreshing finish. This wine was arguably one of the most sumptuous of the day.
In order of preference I would rate these wines: 2011, 2021, 2001
Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Sourced from the coastal region this sixth vintage of their premium Cabernet Sauvignon was both as sumptuous to look at as to taste. Deep garnet in colour, black fruits and cigar box on the nose evolved into black treacle and dried blackcurrants on the palate. A well balanced and structured wine of great quality.
Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
The grapes were sourced entirely from Franschhoek with the wine demonstrating the classic intensity of blackcurrants, blackberries associated with this varietal. Sun dried-tomato, cherry drops and thyme added to the complexity of this wine.
In order of preference: Franschhoek 2021, 2011, Coastal 2001, Stellenbosch 2021,
Boekenhoutskloof Noble Late Harvest, 2019
A delicious addition of the Noble Late Harvest 2019 Semillon made from a small plot close to the to the winery. Deep gold with marmalade, spiced ginger and honey notes. An elegant wine with great potential for ageing, if you can wait that long!
Boekenhoutskloof 2021 wines are imported and sold in the UK through New Generation Wines, which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
