The Buyer
10 Best Pays d’Oc wines that need to be on your buying radar

10 Best Pays d’Oc wines that need to be on your buying radar

Every year the Pays D’Oc IGP wine body releases a Collection of wines that displays the very best wines from the region as judged by an international panel of sommeliers, journalists and consultants. Peter Dean travels to Pays d’Oc country and tastes through the 19-strong 2018 range, whittling them down to 10 wines that best show off the quality, creativity and diversity in a region that allows a mind-boggling 58 grape varieties.

Peter Dean
1st August 2019by Peter Dean
posted in Tasting: Wine,

The quality of these 10 Pays d’Oc wines means that they can stand up against most, the low prices make them seriously good value for buyers.

Just some of the 22,000 samples arriving for a blind tasting

Every year the trade body that looks after the vast Pays d’Oc IGP region tastes 22,000 wines that are trying to get IGP status. 3% are rejected as a matter of course with regular tastings taking place at the headquarters near Montpellier in the South of France.

Pays d’Oc equates roughly to the same territorial outline as the entire Languedoc Roussillon region, accounting for 6 million hectolitres of wine from 120,000 hectares of vineyard – pretty much half of the Languedoc Roussillon.

In order to demonstrate the quantum leap in quality of wine from the region and its famed diversity, the Pays d’Oc trade body has 260 wines pre-selected by the French Sommelier Association for Languedoc Roussillon and the Southern Rhône Valley, which is then judged on by a jury of 14 international judges chaired by Dominique Laporte who was France’s Best Sommelier in 2004.

Tasting the Pays D’Oc 2018 Collection at Pays D’Oc HQ, July 2019

The Buyer will be running a series of articles about the region over the coming weeks, so impressed were we about the quality of wines in the region and also the value for money that many bring. We have already taste-tested 97 rosés with world rosé authority Elizabeth Gabay MW, who was also impressed with the quality and range on offer. To read her report click here.

Not every winemaker enters their wines to be included in the Collection, which is why the 19 wines are missing some names that you might have expected to see there. But each of these 10 warrant serious buying consideration.

10 Best Pays d’Oc wines

Anthus, Domaine Grand-Chemin, 2017

A good example of a quality Languedoc-Roussillon white blend – complex, flavoursome but with great acidity. It’s a equaly-way split between four varieties – Chardonnay, Viognier, Rolle and Sauvignon – with the wood from the 3-months ageing in barrel apparent but serving the texture and the overall balance well. Complex on the nose with slight green/ vegetal character, full palate, persistent finish.

The 2018 vintage has also been shortlisted for the soon-to-be-judged 2019 Pays d’Oc Collection.

Premier Rolle, Domaine D’Aigues Belles, 2017

Rolle/ Vermentino is one of the stars of the region – for single varietal wines as well as being an important blending component. This delightful 100% Rolle is regularly picked to feature in the Pays d’Oc Collection. The fruit comes from a low-yielding plot with organic management; after fermentation 50% is aged for three months in second-fill barrels, the other half in steel. This has delicate floral aromas, and a delicious fruit profile – really clear, precise and focussed. A real stunner.

The 2018 vintage has also been shortlisted for the soon-to-be-judged 2019 Pays d’Oc Collection.

Villa Blanche Grenache, Calmel & Joseph, 2017

Rosé is a key category for Pays d’Oc and this pale pink Grenache Noir (70%), Grenache Gris blend is an impressive halfway house between Provence-style pretty pink and a more ‘serious’ style. It is floral with a slight wild fennel note, the ripe strawberry fruit is not too extracted, there is wonderful texture (quite a feature of the Grenache rosés we tried) with a subtle, and very appetising lick of cream on the finish.

The 2019 vintage has also been shortlisted for the soon-to-be-judged 2019 Pays d’Oc Collection.

Pinot Noir La Métaire, Domaine de la Métaire D’Alon, 2016

One of three single vineyard cuvées from this estate which has ties in Burgundy. All are really impressive. The 2016 La Métaire was picked for the collection over the other two but having tried the 2017s I would go for La Solaire 2017, just as well really as it is more readily available in the UK.

The winemaking involves cold soak, a mix of stemmed and unstemmed fruit, a percentage aged for 9 months in 4thfill Chassin oak barrels, new Rousseau casks and steel. The nose has a mix of red cherry, blueberry, white pepper; the palate is characterised by fine tannins, just the right level of concentration, great acidity and texture, notes of redcurrant and rhubarb, with a slight citrus edge on the finish.

Syrah Les Épices, Domaine Les Yeuses, 2016

There’s always been a lot of focus on the value that you can find in Pays d’Oc wines but the fact that this 100% Syrah is €7 consumer price at the cellar door is incredible. Partial whole bunch and ageing in a mix of barrels and steel tanks for 18 months, the nose is spicy with garigue herbs, smoke and mocha; the palate is fresh with well integrated tannins, black fruits, liquorice with a hint of greenness on the finish.

Figure Libre Cabernet Franc, Domaine Gayda, 2016

The quality of Cabernet Franc that can be achieved in the Languedoc-Roussillon is exemplified in this well-regarded 100% varietal, organic wine in Gayda’s Figure Libre (free-style) range. There is a lovely balance between richness and bright acidity, that holds the wine together well and places it somewhere between New and Old World (Right Bank) styles. The nose is black cherry, cassis and pepper; the palate is dense, with ripe blackberry, cedar and fine tannins.

The 2017 vintage has also been shortlisted for the soon-to-be-judged 2019 Pays d’Oc Collection.

Petit Verdot, Domaine Mas Belles Eaux, 2017

Not to everyone’s taste – it’s a bit of a beast – but I enjoyed this 100% Petit Verdot for its sheer, unapologetic power. The grapes are late harvested in October and punched down in concrete then aged in tanks for six months. The wine makes a statement from the moment it hits the glass – intense red with notes of violets, garrigue herbs, raspberry and chocolate. On the palate it’s a powerful brew of black and red fruit (pomegranate), with a rugged stony texture and tightly-knit, drying tannins. It has to be served with food and would make a great by-the-glass red in a pairing menu, especially at €6.80 the consumer price at cellar door.

Ô d’Yeuses, Domaine Les Yeuses, 2016

A 90% Marselan and Cabernet Franc blend that is a good example of the potential of Marselan – this Cabernet Sauvignon/ Grenache hybrid. The fruit spends 18 months in a mix of casks and tanks. Deep red, profound nose of blackcurrants, rose petals, truffle with a lick of mint; the palate is fresh with concentrated black fruits and smooth, supple tannins and has a lovely balance. Drinking very easily now but will improve with a few years cellaring.

The 2017 vintage has also been shortlisted for the soon-to-be-judged 2019 Pays d’Oc Collection.

Chemin de Moscou, Domaine Gayda, 2015

One of the region’s flagship wines and one which Jancis Robinson has described as ‘important’. The wine is a blend of 70% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 5% Cinsault and comes from low-yielding vines on limestone, schist and granite. The wine spends 21 months in barrel. 2015 was a particularly good vintage for the wine – the fruit profile is powerful, attractive and the acidity and mineral nuances still present and serving the balance well. The nose is complex with black fruits, violets, pepper and cooking spices; the palate has nicely concentrated fruits of the forest with a crunch of cranberry coulis.

The Syrah used in this blend was recently subject of an innovative tasting in which the wine is being matured in nine different vessels. You can read more about this here.

Saveur d’Automne, Les Vignes de L’Arque, 2016

A delicious late harvest sweet wine made from 100% Viognier and aged in oak for 12 months. The wine is complex, well made, not overly sweet and bears no hint of the oak. On the nose there is a melange of different aromas – ripe stone fruit, root ginger, honey – the palate is equally nuanced with ripe apricots, fresh grapes, lime oil being some of the more prominent flavours. Terrific acidity and length with a wine that is as versatile as it is good value at €11 consumer price at the cellar door.