Tasting Archives | The Buyer

Buying decisions from trend setting trade and The Buyer tastings

By Peter Dean on December 15, 2019

The 12 best new Ribera del Duero wines that you need to be aware of

Ask a Spaniard where the best quality Spanish wines come from and the answer will be twofold – Rioja and Ribera del Duero. In the UK, however, Ribera wines are much less well known than Rioja even though their best wines are on an equal footing. Fresh from a recent tour of the region Peter Dean shares with us the wines he discovered on his trip – some very well known and others that are hidden gems ripe for being discovered by wine buyers everywhere. They are a ‘Duero Dozen’ that reflects, in a good way, how the wine styles here are changing for the better.

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Posted In: Callejo, Pesquera, Peter Dean, Ribera del Duero, slider, Tempranillo, Unico

By Bart Feys on December 12, 2019

Why Gigondas 2017 & 16 should be on every wine lover’s radar

A recent extensive tasting of Gigondas wines, mostly from the 2017 and 2016 vintages, showcases the consistently high quality of these wines, typified by classic southern Rhône garrigue notes, freshness, generous fruit intensity and a balanced structure. Rhône expert Bart Feys puts this exclusive Buyer tasting into perspective by first looking at the geology and history of the region and then picking out the top Gigondas from 2016 and 2017 vintages, plus a few other gems that prove why these wines should be on every wine lover’s radar. Because of their consistently impressive range, Feys also focuses on two exemplary domaines Domaine des Bosquets and Chateau Saint Cosme.

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Posted In: Bart Feys, Chateau Saint Cosme, Domaine des Bosquets, Gigondas, Rhone, Southern Rhône

By Chris Wilson on December 10, 2019

The wizardry of Bodega Norton and its expressions of Malbec

The rare opportunity of tasting the 1974 Bodega Norton Malbec, one of the few bottles left in existence, was one of the many draws to a tasting lunch hosted by Norton winemaker David Bonomi. A wine older than scribe Chris Wilson – but had it aged as well? Also on offer was the new 2017 vintages of the Finca Perdriel and Altura but it was the 2015 Privada and Lote Agrelo wines that really turned Wilson’s head – that, and a chance to enter the Hogwarts-like Gothic St Pancras Tower.

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Posted In: argentina, berkmann, Bodega Norton, Chris Wilson, David Bonomi, malbec, Norton

By Justin Keay on November 28, 2019

Bulgaria falling behind Hungary in understanding UK market

It’s a case of ‘one step forward two steps back’ for Bulgaria and its wine producers, believes Justin Keay. After the huge success of the previous two years, this year’s new vintage tasting in London was lacking some of the best producers, many of the indigenous varieties and a lot of the imaginative winemaking so evident in 2018. Talking to key buyers, Keay discovers that price is an issue, consumers’ lack of knowledge and also an inward-looking focus that smacks of a lack of understanding of the global wine market.

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Posted In: Bulgaria, Justin Keay

By Peter Dean on November 27, 2019

First taste of Unico 2010 and other new releases at Vega-Sicilia

Tasting the new releases from Vega-Sicilia is up there with ‘DRC day’ in January. But when that tasting is behind the hallowed doors of the wine estate itself then tasting Unico 2010, Valbuena 5° 2015, Alion 2016 and Unico, Reserva Especial 2020 takes on an added frisson of excitement. Spain’s ‘first growth’ and arguably its most prestigious winery is notoriously difficult to gain access to, but Peter Dean did and posts this account of what it’s like to sample Unico 2010 in the hushed drawing room of the Nineteenth Century villa that serves as its headquarters.

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Posted In: Alton, Peter Dean, Ribera del Duero, spanish wine, Tempranillo, Tinto Fino, Unico 2010, Valbuena, Valbuena 5°, Vega Sicilia

By Roger Jones on November 26, 2019

Roger Jones assesses the Ancient Wines at Hallgarten mini-tasting

As a restaurateur Roger Jones has found that his customers are more at ease when ordering wines and grape varieties that they can pronounce. So how were they going to fare with Vachnadziani, Rkatsitelli and Karmrahyut – three varietals from Georgia and Armenia, that are part of Hallgarten’s 80 new-wine refresh of its portfolio, embracing Ancient Wines? Jones tasted through the range, recommends his stand-out wines, which are best value, and which ones stood up to the Old and New World wines which, for Jones stole the show.

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Posted In: Ancient wines, Armenia, Gerard Bertrand, Hallgarten, Karmrahyut, Languedoc, Voskehat

By Simon Field MW on November 24, 2019

Chateau Haute-Serre

Reappraising Cahors: Simon Field MW on Château de Haute-Serre

The ‘black wines’ of Cahors in France’s South-West are still suffering in the UK from a reputation of being too challenging – both cerebrally and on account of their sometimes ferocious tannins – sad given the fact that in the 14th Century half of all wine imported into Britain was from Cahors. At the UK launch of its new cuvée Lucter, Château de Haute-Serre owner Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux shows Simon Field MW how he has made it his mission to manage the tannins in Cahors without sacrificing the essence of the wine and its key points of difference.

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Posted In: Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux, Cahors, Chateau de Haute-Serre, Lucter, malbec, Simon Field

By Anne Krebiehl MW on November 23, 2019

Regis Camus shows his sunny side with new cuvée Rare 2006

Ever since he vacated the chef de cave seat at Piper-Heidsieck, Regis Camus has devoted his attention between making premium sake and top Champagne cuvée Rare. In London to show off the new vintage, Rare 2006, to Anne Krebiehl MW, he explains why this cuvée is a ‘sunny’ one rather than ‘iconic’ or ‘radiant’; why most of the Chardonnay in the blend comes from the Montagne de Reims rather than the Côte des Blancs; why it is only the ninth white Rare since 1976; and why making Champagne of this calibre requires the maker to have a ‘photograph’ in their mind of each vintage.

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Posted In: Anne Krebiehl MW, champagne, Piper-Heidsieck, rare, Rare 2006, Régis Camus

By Chris Wilson on November 21, 2019

Chris Wilson picks 10 ‘Wines with a Conscience’ from Ellis Wines

Unusual to get tasting notes that include references to Frazzles and “that savoury taste you get a few hours after being punched in the nose,” especially when the wines are at a tasting called Wines with a Conscience. What did Ellis Wines’ new concept tasting all mean? And did the idea stack up? We sent Chris Wilson to 67 Pall Mall to find out, and he was pleasantly pleased with this 50-strong range of Organic, Biodynamic and Sustainable wines, one of which actually uses the winery’s self-produced bee pollen yeast.

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Posted In: Chris Wilson, Ellis, Ellis of Richmond, Wines with a Conscience

By Justin Keay on November 20, 2019

Why Blaufränkisch is in vogue – all the way down the Danube

The ‘New Old World’ of Central and Eastern Europe is producing some extraordinary and exciting wines right now. Pay particular attention to wines involving the Blue grape, says Justin Keay, whether it’s known as Blaufränkisch, Kekfrankos, Lemberger or one of the many other names it adopts as it follows the winding Danube down to the Black Sea. The grape was part of a landmark tasting in London which had a Hungarian focus but also had wines from Romania, Bulgaria, Austria and even Australia – vinified as a single varietal but also, perhaps most successfully as a blending component.

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Posted In: Blaufränkisch, Borgonja, Danube, Frankovka, Justin Keay, Kékfrankos, Lemberger, Modra Frankinja

By Anne Krebiehl MW on November 19, 2019

Bouchard Finlayson

How Bouchard Finlayson’s Galpin Peak Pinot Noirs age gracefully

One of the bugbears of Peter Finlayson is that wines are drunk way too young. In order to prove a point he assembled a gaggle of wine experts, including our own Anne Krebiehl MW, and showed them a flight of his Galpin Peak Pinot Noirs that he makes in South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde valley. Finlayson has always taken his cues from Burgundy, his winery Bouchard Finlayson is a joint project with the late Paul Bouchard, of the Beaune négociant Bouchard Aîné & Fils; and the Pinot he makes is always made to be laid down. Krebiehl takes up the story.

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Posted In: Anne Krebiehl MW, Bouchard Finlayson, Galpin Peak, Hemel-en-Aarde, pinot noir, south africa

By David Kermode on November 15, 2019

Getting a new perspective on Napa Cabernet across 16 vintages

British wine consumers and buyers are a tad obsessed with the ageability of wines – Cabernet Sauvignon in particular – a hangover perhaps from all that collecting Claret. But while tasting aged Bordeaux is not uncommon in the trade, getting the opportunity to see how well Napa Cabernet ages is a much rarer beast. This much was in evidence as Napa Valley Vintners’ annual ’A Perspective on Vintages’ tasting made its London debut to a packed crowd of wine experts, including our very own David Kermode. The tasting showed off 16 different vintages, allowing Kermode to assess the part played by vintage variation and the consistency of style of the winemakers present.

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Posted In: Cabernet sauvignon, california, David Kermode, Napa, Napa Cabernet, Napa vintage, SR Tonella Cellars

By Anne Krebiehl MW on November 13, 2019

Dom Ruinart Rosé 2007

Dom Ruinart Rosé 2007 stops Anne Krebiehl MW in her tracks

Ruinart was the first Champagne house to make a rosé way back in 1764 and they are still going strong. Correction. They are going from strength to strength argues Anne Krebiehl MW who confesses to being taken aback at how good the new vintage Dom Ruinart Rosé 2007 is, as well as the wines shown alongside it – the 2007 Blanc de Blancs and two other vintage Rosés. Ruinart has always made Chardonnay the backbone of its wines, a philosophy that helps achieve one of its prime goals – to be able to drink it from 9am one day to 9am the next.

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Posted In: Anne Krebiehl MW, champagne, Dom Ruinart Rosé 2007, Frédéric Panaiotis

By Geoffrey Dean on November 12, 2019

Warwick Estate Trilogy

Why JD Pretorius made Warwick Trilogy 2016 Cab Franc dominant

After the success of Trilogy 2015 which was Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, Warwick Wine Estate’s new cellar master JD Pretorius decided to make Warwick Estate Trilogy 2016 Cabernet Franc dominant, making it one of the very few Bordeaux blends in the Cape to have this style of blend. Geoffrey Dean caught up with Pretorius at the launch of the 2016 to find out the challenges of growing Cab Franc in the Cape, why the blend is as it is and to taste the previous vintages of 2012, 2008, 2005 and 1997 to compare and contrast the new wine.

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Posted In: Bordeaux blend, Geoffrey Dean, south africa, Trilogy 2016, Warwick Estate Trilogy

By Peter Dean on November 11, 2019

How Elephant Hill has become a ‘complete’ Hawke’s Bay estate

In just over a decade Elephant Hill has become one of Hawke’s Bay’s most prestigious estates, situated as it is on the coast at Te Awanga that, even by New Zealand standards, is jaw-droppingly beautiful. The winery has vineyards in three distinct districts: Te Awanga, Bridge Pa and Gimblett Gravels each of which have their own microclimate and soils and, together, make Elephant Hill a ‘complete’ Hawke’s Bay producer. For head winemaker Steve Skinner the challenge is to create wines that convey their sense of place and which can deliver even when the climate conspires against them. Skinner was in London to showcase his new ‘Element’ single vineyard wine series and ‘Icon’ blends – and to reflect on how far the winery has come in the 12 years that he has been making wines there.

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Posted In: Elephant Hill, Hawke's Bay, new zealand, Peter Dean, Steve Skinner

By Chris Wilson on November 9, 2019

Cloudy Bay 2019

Chris Wilson’s first taste of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Always asking questions, always pushing boundaries, that’s the philosophy of Daniel Sorrell who has been the winemaker at Cloudy Bay for the past four years. As the winery celebrates its 35th anniversary Chris Wilson met up with Sorrell to taste the new vintage Cloudy Bay 2019, where he also found out what made 2019 a nerve-wracking season, why Sorrell thinks Cloudy Bay has become one of the iconic white wines of the world, how the estate is seeking a ‘nervous’ quality in the wine and how it is trying to avoid the thiol-heavy style that seems to be going out of fashion.

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Posted In: Chris Wilson, Cloudy Bay 2019, new zealand, sauvignon blanc

By David Kermode on November 8, 2019

Why Germany’s Get It On tasting is as successful as TV’s Blind Date

‘It’s not so hard making wine – the real difficulty is selling it,’ goes the wine industry adage. There’s a lot of truth in that statement, of course, which is why the ‘Get It On’ tasting is so important for German wine producers without a UK importer. Wines seeking distribution are paired with importers who are looking for a German wine and the hope is that they end up ‘Makin’ Whoopee’. Since Wines of Germany has been running this wine tasting version of Blind Date, there have been 45 unrepresented German wine distributors who have found a UK importer. David Kermode was at the latest tasting and picks out the wines that he thought should no longer ‘be single’.

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Posted In: David Kermode, German wine, Germany, Get It On

By Peter Dean on November 7, 2019

French Connection: How Enotria &Coe beefed up its wine portfolio

During 2018 Enotria&Coe introduced 150 new wines, 70 of which are from France. The strategy was aimed at filling some missing gaps in the portfolio, to add interesting boutique wines to their existing anchor producers, and to offer a range of price points to its growing customer base. Drafted in to oversee the change was Rebecca Gergely, formerly of La Marchande, who showed a selection of the wines to Peter Dean at Enotria&Coe’s swanky new tasting suite at Park Royal.

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Posted In: Enotria&Coe, french wine, Peter Dean

By Justin Keay on November 5, 2019

Discovering the extraordinary wines of Alois Lageder

The exquisite wines of Alois Lageder have for long been a favourite of sommeliers the world over – an early convert to biodynamics, his wines bristle with a life of their own. But visiting Lageder in his home town of Magre, in Alto Adige, the most northern part of Italy, is a truly unforgettable experience, writes Justin Keay. Not only is the setting breathtaking but tasting through a 30-wine strong portfolio, grouped into four main sections, is an eye-opening discovery of many cuvées that rarely see the light of day. This, all accompanied by the great man’s philosophising on varietals, agriculture and “cultivating nature as a habitat for life.”

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Posted In: Alois Lageder, Alto Adige, Italy, Justin Keay

By Roger Jones on November 3, 2019

Roger Jones is bowled over by mammoth Alsace Rocks! tasting

Send top chef and wine expert Roger Jones to pick a handful of his favourite Alsatian wines from the Alsace Rocks! tasting and what do you get? 1600 words on 27 wines, tasting notes, food-matching suggestions, two special producer profiles and more enthusiasm than is all together comfortable in a diminutive Welshman. Jones is a massive fan of Alsace and one of the world’s experts on its wines – both as a wine lover and, most importantly, understanding how they work in the context of his top restaurant.

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Posted In: Alsace, Crémant, Gewürztraminer, Joseph Cattin, Julian Schaal, Maison Cattin, muscat, Pinot Blanc, pinot gris, Riesling, roger jones, Sylvaner

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The 2016 vintage was the first that winemaker Peter Sisseck allegedly said was getting close to his vision – an entry level Pingus from fruit sourced externally to help save old vines, promote better farming and ‘give something back to the region’. The 2017 is in the same vein both in the wine’s quality and sheer value for money. Very dark wine, the nose is heady with violets and fresh raspberries; the palate is instantly likeable – elegant and precise but with a lot of depth and power, there is good focus and balance between the generosity of fruit and the acidity and youthful, sandpaper tannins. There are nuances of liquorice, kirsch, nice grippy texture. Classy.
1st vintage of the Classic Cuvée - 1998 - mid-gold, rich, evolved nose, nuts, patisserie, poached orchard fruit - weighty mid-palate but still beautifully fresh and crisp.
Damn these wines are good. And in such a classic vintage as 2010. Carlo Ferrini’s style is pure elegance, the wines expressive both of their unique terroir and the respective vintages, and a superb balance - a confluence of high acidity, ultra-fine tannins, focused fruit and a long, dried orange peel finish. The 2010 had notes of kirsch, balsamic and fresh tobacco leaf to add to freshly crushed berries. Stunning
Light, fresh crunchy Gamay with no sulfites added. The nose is sweet with ripe red fruit and a not unattractive confected note that was creamy and had a hint of candy shrimps; light, fresh, intense flavours of raspberry, strawberry; nice purity to the fruit, great vibrancy on the palate; lively, nice balance. Impressive. £13.19 list price.
Who knew 30 year-old Savoie Mondeuse could taste so good and fresh? Tertiary aromas - candy floss, mulberry jam, fruit syrup, farmyard - suggest over-extracted fruit bomb, but the palate was so fresh, clean, with a crisp texture. Part of a tasting of French Alpine wines held to promote a new book on the subject by @winklorch Genuinely interesting wines. More on The Buyer soon.
Along with Felton Road one of the most consistently reliable Pinot Noirs in NZ. Terrific nose of ripe red/ black fruit (raspberry, cherry) and some evolution, bit of smokiness - grilled meat, pepper; there is some concentration of the fruit but also a minerality and fine-grained tannins that helps balance the palate; smash of sour apple, poached rhubarb and redcurrant on the finish. 25% whole bunch, 40% new barriques for 22 months. Reminiscent of Morey-Saint-Denis. Delicious.