Anyone walking into ProWein is left in no doubt they are about to venture into the world’s biggest international wine fair – with huge billboards and posters repeating the message at every entrance into Messe Dusseldorf – a claim the show has been proudly, and rightly, been able to live up to for at least the last 10 years. Whether it will still be able to say the same in five, never mind 10 years, time is up for serious debate following the new competition that Wine Paris & Vinexpo Paris now offers. But what was also crystal clear from this year’s event is that ProWein is not going away anytime soon and for many buyers and producers, particularly those in the southern hemisphere, the fair is still the biggest show in their worlds. For others the jury is now firmly out on which event they should be focusing their efforts on. Richard Siddle was there to once again walk the 17 trading halls of Dusseldorf and report back on a show that needs to regroup, recalibrate, reset and listen to all those who now question what it can offer, whilst embracing the strong, loyal buyer and producer base who see their futures very much aligned to what ProWein can offer. Here’s part one of The Buyer’s two part analysis of the show.
It is still possible to find true value for money and quality when buying wine in the UK, despite the upward pressure on wine prices. To help people through this maze, and to demonstrate the sheer breadth of wines available in the UK, the Association of Wine Educators (AWE) has just published its 10th list of 100 AWEsome wines – based upon what 100 qualified wine educators have unearthed during the past year. AWE’s Heather Dougherty reveals how the list is created, points out some of the trends of the past decade and provides a link so you can discover some gems for yourself.
“We believe in supporting all those who choose this profession, regardless of their culture, gender, ethnicity or religion.” That was very much the spirit in which William Wouters, president of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI), wanted to hold the organisation’s general assembly and a chance for the great and good of the sommelier world to come together to discuss a wide range of issues. David Kermode travelled to Monaco to report on what happened.
Senior hospitality chiefs were in a fighting mood at this week’s Northern Restaurant and Bar show in Manchester on the back of last week’s much maligned Budget that might have seen a freeze in alcohol duty, but none of the much needed measures the sector was demanding in order to provide the urgent help so many operators are asking for. Despite the setbacks industry chiefs said the sector needs to stay strong and united so that it can take the fight into this year’s general election, reports Jonathan Caswell.
“These guys are starting to turn Italian wine upside down. It’s only the beginning. It’s even harder in Italy, that it was South Africa, to bring about this change, as it’s a much bigger industry and more spread out, but it’s happening for sure.” That’s why Robin Davis, founder of Swig, believes there is a now a new wave winemaking scene happening in Italy similar to the new wave it was so quick to jump on in South Africa nearly 10 years ago. A winemaking movement that he believes has the potential to re-imagine the wines – including those made from maturing grapes in beehives – that we start to see on premium wine lists in wine merchants and our most ambitious wine-driven restaurants. Ahead of Swig’s potentially breakthrough new wave tasting of Italian wines in London on March 18, Davis explains exactly why Italy is now “a breeding ground for new talent and needs to be taken seriously.”
“Once you’ve added one Portuguese wine [to your list], you can easily add a second or a third, as they will all be so different.” That’s the secret of Portuguese wines which Frederico Falcão, chairman of the ViniPortugal board, hopes the UK wine trade and press can discover for themselves at the Wines of Portugal Grand Trade Tasting that is taking place in London later this month. Here he sets out what buyers and the press can expect from an event that promises to showcase the best wines from most Portuguese wine regions.
March will be a milestone month for Greencroft Bottling as it marks the move into its enormous new home, hailed by founder Tony Cleary as “the most sustainable building of its kind on the planet”. Greencroft Bottling celebrates its 21st birthday later this year and, by that time, it should be settled in to its new County Durham HQ, which will also house spacious offices. The expansion will offer the opportunity to more than double production capacity, but as Greencroft Bottling’s managing director, Mark Satchwell, tells David Kermode, in a rare interview, the move is about giving the business a sustainable future and a chance to adapt to the next generation of formats, which he firmly believes will continue to include glass.
“If Greens and the never empty Le Gavroche can’t make it, what chance the little independent round the corner?” That’s the message from award-winning chef, Paul Askew of Liverpool’s The Art School ahead of tomorrow’s Budget where the worlds of hospitality, retail and drinks will be looking for much needed help and support from the Chancellor. To help set the scene and explore just how different sized hospitality operators are coping with increased costs and cash strapped customers, Jonathan Caswell talks to leading players across Merseyside about the support they need and how their suppliers can help.
Sherry barrels are not just sherry barrels. They are just as much individuals as we are. They are important and characterful creatures each with their own story to tell and personality to share. They are often the hidden magic behind the liquid that ends up in the bottle and in our glass. Be it for an aged sherry, or increasingly highly sought after by the top whisky distilleries looking for the best sherry casks to give their whiskies a unique flavour of their own. Rupert Ponsonby raises a glass, and a dram to the sherry cask and all who make them.
Despite the on-going war with Russia, Ukrainian winemakers are continuing to brave missile attacks and do all they can to work in their vineyards in order to make the quality wine they know they have to make in order to provide for their future and ensure its winemaking sector can still prosper against all adversity. Here Victoria Makarova looks at what the current situation is for winemakers and their families and local communities and examines the new opportunities now opening up across Europe – in key markets like Estonia – for its wines.
As Albariño from Rías Baixas becomes increasingly scarce with rising demand from the UK and other key international markets, Amanda Barnes explores why Uruguay is poised to help fill the gap with its own unique style of this sought after variety . You can also find out for yourself what Uruguay has to offer at a breakthrough Uruguayan wine tasting in London on March 6. Barnes also highlights some of the key producers to keep an eye on.
There was very much the sense of being in the right place at the right time at last week’s Wine Paris & Vinexpo Paris. An event that has, in the last two years, fast tracked its way into the hearts and minds of even the most jaded wine trade producer, or buyer, beaten down by years of trudging to and from international trade fairs. There was a collective excitement about being part of a show on the up. In a city that simply does not care there is a major wine event going on. But that is also part of Wine Paris’ appeal. The chance to experience and enjoy one of the world’s greatest cities whilst getting down to the business of buying and selling wine and spirits. Richard Siddle reports back from the buzz of Wine Paris and examines what it is the show is doing right, and will need to do more of in order to keep its momentum going.
The Roussillon is ‘the last frontier of France’ – a region that’s been making wine for millennia but is only today being rediscovered as a source of fine wine. So says Steve Daniel, Hallgarten & Novum Wine’s head of buying, who has made it his mission over the next five years to give the region the attention it fully deserves, and the kind of focus he has brought to bear on Greek wine. On the eve of Hallgarten’s annual portfolio tasting in London, Peter Dean caught up with Daniel and tasted through the wines from the six producers he has chosen to spearhead this new project.
With a growing middle class and increasing appreciation for premium drinks, the Asia-Pacific region continues to present strong opportunities for wines and spirits brands. This expanding market, however, remains a complex one and can be hard to navigate and requires strategic partnerships and a deep understanding of the local market to get right. Which is where Nimbility, a specialist market builder for drinks companies across the region, hopes it can offer a targeted route to market and has worked with a number of brands and producers including Maison Mirabeau, Sagamore Spirits, Rathfinny Estate, Journey’s End, Klein Constantia, Trinity Hill and Bertinga. Here Nimbility’s founding partner, Francesca Martin, explains how it can help wine producers find the right import and distribution partners in the APAC region.
To best understand the key trends, opportunities and pressure points across the super competitive UK on-trade sector, Wine Business Solutions has for over 15 years analysed and tracked up to 300,000 different wine listings on wine lists in venues across the country. Here its founder, Peter McAtamney, sets out some of the key lessons to be learnt from its latest Wine On-Premise UK 2024 report, shares his thoughts on what areas he thinks UK importers are doing well and where they need to quickly improve on – and what it was that made Boutinot stand out as its leading supplier of the year.
The concessions made to demonstrating French farmers over ‘green regulations’ was a setback for biodiversity but a timely reminder during the second Vignoble & Biodiversité conference, of the need for strength in adversity. The French government backtracking on its Ecophyto programme which would have massively reduced the use of pesticides in French agriculture coincided with the conference getting underway in Avignon. Ben Bernheim was there for The Buyer to hear why biodiversity matters, particularly in viticulture, and what is being done in the field to promote it.
“Greek wine has come a long way over the past years. I believe that in today’s rapidly evolving global wine scene, an annually updated Greek wine report has become indispensable.” Which is why Yiannis Karakasis MW has pulled together arguably the most comprehensive guide to Greek wines in his new 116 page report – Greek Wine Explained. Here he sets out why he thinks Greek wines deserve their place in the premium and fine wine market and what to expect in his new report.
For 10 years Coravin has allowed ‘accessed’ wine to have a life above and beyond the limitations of its closure – whether that be cork or skrewcap. Since inventor and founder Greg Lambrecht introduced us to his revolutionary gadget quarter of a billion glasses of wine have been served with Coravin and extensions been developed for sparkling wines, Vinolok closures and 100ml sample bottles. Lambrecht was in London to show how the device can also be used for No/Lo, fruit juice and fortified wines – and put Victoria Sharples’ tasting to the test with a 15 year-old bottle of Barolo that has been ‘accessed’ multiple times over the past decade.
“There is a whole generation of people working in hospitality who grew up through Covid and don’t have that ‘pub or going out culture’…We cannot continue to assume knowledge that just isn’t there.” That’s how Bob Davidson puts into context the work that Veraison, the wine training arm of Berkmann Wine Cellars, is doing to help connect with the new and next generation of hospitality staff that the on-trade is going to rely on to make the most of the wine category in restaurants, bars, pubs and hotels. Here Jonathan Caswell talks to Davidson about the work it is doing and what impact it hopes to make.
If there is one business lesson anyone wanting to forge a long term career in the wine industry needs to learn is don’t burn your bridges when you move on from a particular role. It’s an adage Miles Platt can certainly attest to having twice worked for Bibendum in his career, and now Jascots Wine Merchants having recently returned to lead the business as part of his wider role as head of on-trade for its parent business, Freixenet Copestick. He explains to Richard Siddle why he is delighted to be back heading up a business with a clear goal of doubling Jascot’s current size of around £10m turnover to £20m in the coming years. To do that he wants Jascots to be the “easiest and most seamless” wine supplier to work with in the premium on and off-trade.